Showing posts with label Cats. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cats. Show all posts

Thursday, November 22, 2012

Cat Obesity: Tips for Slimming Down Your Fat Cat

Cat Obesity: Tips for Slimming Down Your Fat Cat

Cat Obesity: Tips for Slimming Down Your Fat Cat
By Velita Livingston

I have seen far too many people think their pudgy little cat is cute. However, did you know that cat obesity is just as dangerous in our furry little friends as it is in humans? Therefore you'll want to do something to cut down on your cat's weight as quickly as possible. This can be a little difficult if you have an indoor cat as generally they don't get the exercise they need. However, if you follow the tips in this guide you should be able to make even the laziest cat in the world drop the excess pounds.

First and foremost, you'll want to determine if your cat is overweight. Some cats appear to be a little chunky, but that is how they should be due to their breed. To quickly check, you should feel around your cat's ribs, they should be easy to identify. If you cannot feel the ribs then your cat is overweight. There are also a number of online 'calculators' which will also help you determine whether your pet is suffering from cat obesity.

One of the biggest tips I can offer is to change the food your cat is eating. You should look to purchase better quality food, such as a grain-free food that doesn't contain corn. Cheaper foods contain more fat and fillers than they need to, and they also don't have the proper nutrients. Therefore, cheaper foods could do your pet a lot of harm, so steer clear of those. Don't worry, purchasing better quality cat food isn't that much more expensive and you will probably need to feed your cat a lot less. In fact, purchasing a higher quality pet food will save you money in the long run, as it will result in fewer trips to the vet, because you'll have a healthier cat.

Another helpful suggestion is to invest in a pet food bowl with a portion control dome in the center or what is often referred to as a slow feed bowl. I have been very successful using these types of bowls in the past to slim down my fat cats. These food bowls help to control pets that gobble up their food too fast, which can result in overeating.

The next step is to cut down on the treats that you are offering your pet. Many people give their furry friends cat treats on a daily basis, and this contributes to cat obesity more than anything. Save the treats for special occasions, and even then, you can purchase 'low fat' treats from your local pet store, so use those instead!

You will also need to exercise your cat more often. If you have an indoor cat, then grab a leash from a pet store and take them for a walk at least thirty minutes a day. This is also great exercise for you as well! Also, interactive toys are a great way to keep your cat active and can also strengthen the bond between you and your pet. My cat's love the Da Bird feather toy, which they absolutely can't resist; even my laziest kitty will get off the couch for this toy. It is by far the best cat toy I can recommend for interacting with your furry friends.

Finally, ease your pet into the diet plan gradually, especially if you are changing their food. This is because sudden changes in food can wreak havoc on your cat's digestion, and can even make them sick.

Follow these simple tips and you should start seeing your kitty drop those excess pounds. When you are putting your cat through a 'weight loss' regime, you will want to constantly check them to ensure that they are actually losing weight. So keep feeling around those ribs, and weigh your pet from time to time. Remember though, your goal is to get your cat down to a 'healthy' weight, don't take it too far, plenty of people end up with a cat that is far too skinny, and that is not what you want.

Velita Livingston is the founder of the Cat Lover's Diary blob which provides rich content with great advice on cat care tips and cat training, teaching pet owners how to protect, pamper and live peacefully with their pets. Visit the http://www.catloversdiary.com to watch the Cat Lover's Diary Movie, it contains breathtaking images and heartwarming quotes... It will uplift and inspire you! You can also visit the Cat Lover's Diary on Facebook and Twitter.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Velita_Livingston
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Monday, January 30, 2012

8 Must-Have Ingredients for Your Homemade Cat Food Recipe

By Ronalimsy

If you want to know exactly what your cat is being fed each day, then the best way is to prepare a homemade cat food recipe yourself. However, for your cat to remain healthy, it is important to ensure that your homemade cat food recipe includes sufficient animal protein, calcium, phosphorus, iodine and vitamins. This is usually obtained from red meat, liver, kidney, heart, chicken and sometimes milk.

Generally, raw food contains more nutrients as cooking destroys some vitamins, especially vitamin B. If you are squeamish about feeding raw food to your cat and intend to feed your cat cooked food instead, then you may need to provide pet food supplements in your cat's diet. Your vet will be able to advise you on appropriate pet food supplements, based on your homemade cat food diet.

Here are some important ingredients which you should incorporate into your homemade cat food diet:

INGREDIENT #1 - Meat and Meat By-Products

Both red and white meat contains protein, B-group vitamins, fat and energy. Highest sources of protein are beef, chicken (meat) and liver, followed by heart, chicken skin, lamb, kidney and chicken necks.

All types of meat are deficient in vitamin A therefore, it is good to feed liver to your cat as it is rich in vitamin A. However, liver should not be more than 10% of your cat food diet as too much vitamin A can lead to skeletal problems and other abnormal bone growth. If you are worried about an overdose of vitamin A, feed cooked liver to your cat instead of raw liver. Or as a rough guide, feed raw liver not more than once a week.

INGREDIENT #2 - Fish

It is good to have a mix of the 2 main types of fish: white fish and fatty/oily fish (such as tuna). White fish is leaner but is weak in vitamins A, D, E and K.

Fatty and oily fish on the other hand, contain high levels of vitamins A and D but your cat may suffer a case of steatites (a painful inflammation of fat deposits under the skin) if it is fed too much fatty fish.

In the case of fish, it is advisable to cook the fish first. Raw fish contains thiaminase, an enzyme which destroys thiamine, an important vitamin B. Cooking destroys thiaminase and helps to retain more vitamins in the food.

Whole fish (including the bones) is very nutritional cat food as fish bones contain calcium and phosphorus. However, to prevent fish bones from getting caught in your cat's teeth or throat, it is good to soften the bones first. You can do this by pressure cooking, boiling or stewing.

INGREDIENT #3 - Eggs

Eggs are high in animal protein, iron, vitamins, fats and carbohydrates and are ideal to include in your homemade cat food. However, too much may be harmful as the egg whites contain avidin which destroys a B vitamin that is essential for good hair and skin health and proper muscle function.

As a general guide, feed raw egg not more than once a week. If you feed the egg yolk only, then you may increase this to no more than 3 times a week.

INGREDIENT #4 - Milk, Cheese and Yoghurt

Dairy products are high in protein, fat, carbohydrate, calcium, phosphorus, vitamin A and the B vitamins.

Kittens generally like warmed milk and cream. But as they mature, they become lactose-intolerant and may develop diarrhea. You can get low-lactose cat milk which is available in supermarkets. Cream is fattening and too much may result in an obese cat.

Cheese may be a better dairy alternative as it does not contain lactose. However, some cats do not appreciate the taste and will not eat it.

INGREDIENT #5 - Fats and Oils

Fats are essential in your homemade cat food to ensure your cat's skin doesn't become itchy, dry and scurfy.

Good sources are safflower or corn oil and fish fats. Safflower is the preferred choice.

INGREDIENT #6 - Vegetables

Vegetables provide vitamin C and some are rich in B vitamins. It also provides fibre which should form about 5% of your homemade cat food diet. Mix vegetables with meat or fish and cook it as a stew. Most cats will eat the vegetables if cooked this way.

INGREDIENT #7 - Grains

Grains provide carbohydrate, proteins, minerals and vitamins. Good sources are:

Wheatgerm - thiamine, vitamin E
Yeast - B vitamins, minerals, recommended for older cats
Rice - most cats will eat this and it is a good base for mixing with meat and fish
Wheat, oats, barley - higher protein content and less fattening than rice

INGREDIENT #8 - Water

Lastly, and probably more important than any of the above, a fresh clean supply of water must always be available. Generally, your cat will need about 40ml of water per kg of body weight. However, environmental temperature, your cat's consumption of dry food and ailments may require you to adjust accordingly.

Your cat is an individual and will have its own likes and dislikes. Different pedigrees may also have different requirements. It is always advisable to check with your vet and seek professional advice before preparing your homemade cat food.

Source: http://www.articlecircle.com/ - Free Articles Directory

About the Author

For more information on giving the best cat care for your cat, visit http://www.My-Pet-Cat.com

Cool Tools for Pet Pests

  
By Gregory Franklyn
There are LOTS of products to protect your dogs, cats, ferrets, mice, rats etc., and if you give me a minute I'll be more than happy to sell you all of them, but today I'm out to save you some money, get you much closer to your pet, and eliminate the need for my own Flea & Tick products. Here's a few tips you can easily use to deal with Ticks, Fleas and other small insect parasites that, literally, LIVE to hitch a ride on your little loved ones.

Eucalyptus: I've had 2 separate successful incidents of eliminating a flea infestation in my home using this common tree. By Infestation I mean fleas jumping on my bare feet while just walking through a room. It got that bad because we did NOT want to use an insecticide at all, let alone INSIDE our house! I did a lot of research on natural methods of dealing with fleas and ticks. Most were a bust, but we did find a write-up in Jethro Kloss' "Back to Eden" that suggested using Eucalyptus.

Here's what we did: There happened to be a grove of Eucalyptus trees just across the road from our house. We went over there and picked up a bunch of fallen branches and cut a few down too. We took them all across the street, took all the leaves off and spread them all over the house. About 48 hours later, there wasn't a flea or tick to be found, not even on Disco (the cat) or Toke (The dog). As it turns out, most insects, including fleas and ticks, are not particularly fond of the scent. They simply left on their own. We were delighted that we didn't have to harm anything, including the pests we wanted to be rid of, while solving a real problem with no cost what so ever.

Years later I had the same problem with a roommates' Cat. My roommate insisted her name was "Sly" but I called her "The Evil One"! That's a story for another day, however. This time there were no Eucalyptus trees to be found and we didn't have the luxury of raiding a nearby grove. So I tried the next best thing. I learned that it was the scent that the nasty little buggers didn't like, so I went to "the Body Shoppe" at the Mall and got some Eucalyptus oil and put it in a spray bottle with a bunch of warm water and walked through the house spraying every carpet and rug I could find. Furniture too! Sure enough, about 48 hours later, we were free of fleas and ticks.

Love that Jethro Kloss! He also suggested making a shampoo for furry animals that includes good concentrations of Pennyroyal. It's as effective as any current meds available today but it's a lot more labor intensive. You have to shampoo your pets regularly, about every 5-7 days in some cases. The labor comes in when you have to negotiate with a cat to give them a shampoo ONCE let alone every 5 days. The Dogs had fun with the whole operation, though. When they got out of the tub naturally they would run through the house shaking the water off their coats (Pennyroyal and all) all over the house. Immunizing the rugs and furniture in the process. How thoughtful!

Lastly, and this one works for Ticks much better than fleas, you can pick up some "Brewer's Yeast" or "Nutritional Yeast" in the bulk section of most grocery stores these days and certainly at any natural food store. Just sprinkle a little bit on your dog or cat's food every so often. When a tick bites your loved one they don't like the taste and start looking for another host to hitch a ride on. Don't over do the yeast sprinkling even though you dogs and cats love the taste. It gave Disco and Toke the runs because I started out thinking I had to use a heavy concentration. Just a little will do the trick and you'll save yourself the nasty chore of cleaning up runny,,, um,,, well, you get my meaning!

As an aside: A little Brewer's Yeast and soy sauce on your popcorn and/or your baked potatoes is a real delight at my house and it DOESN'T give us the runs. Since you already have some in the house now anyway…..

So if you don't want to go to all the trouble of using these "Back to Nature" tricks, we have a variety of solutions for your pets that are also natural, but we do all the work FOR you. Stop by and see what we have for you and your funny furry freaky friends at http://www.gonatures.com

Much Love,
Gregory

Source: http://www.articlecircle.com/ - Free Articles Directory
About the Author
Gregory Franklyn is a 50 something native of Detroit who currently calls the Pacific Northwest his home. He has studied and applied Natural and Alternative remedies for common ailments for over 15 years. He currently operates a website dedicated to information and products that naturally enhance the human body's ability to heal itself. Franklyn is NOT a medical health professional. Visit http://www.gonatures.com

Sunday, June 20, 2010

When A Dog Bites Get A Personal Injury Lawyer

by Nick Messe

Every year, millions of people throughout the country suffer from dog bites. In our society, many people have come to think about their pets as people with fur or hair, forgetting that they are still animals and do not have the capacity to reason and think like humans. For this reason, the law holds the pet owner responsible for the actions of their pets.

Injuries can range in severity from a mild bite that doesn't even break the skin, to a vicious mauling that can cause severe injuries and even death in the most extreme cases. Some dogs, such as pit bulls, have even been banned in some areas due to their violent tendencies and propensity to cause serious damage when attacking individuals.

Many of these deaths are handled in criminal court where precedents have been set for sentencing owners to many years in prison. In addition, a victim can file a civil lawsuit seeking to recover costs from medical bills and punitive damage. In order to get the compensation that they deserve because of a dog attack, victims need to consult with a personal injury lawyer or a wrongful death attorney.

Hiring a personal injury attorney or a wrongful death lawyer can allow victims to understand whether or not their case has merits and can be successfully argued in court. In many areas, there are clear laws and regulations that govern whether or not a victim of a dog attack can win damages from litigation. In order to prove culpability, a judge or jury must consider a number of factors. The first issue that will have to be determined is whether or not the dog in question actually caused the injury.

Next, the owner of the dog must be identified. Only then can a lawsuit be filed against that pet owner. Another consideration that a judge or jury has to make is whether or not the attack was the result of provocation from the victim.

If the attack was a result of the victim having provoked the dog, the case may not have merits and may not result in an award of damages. If, on the other hand, a person was walking by and minding his own business when attacked, a personal injury award may be granted. Finally, it must be determined whether or not a person had the legal right to be in the same area as the dog when the injury occurred.

Pet owners have a responsibility to keep the public safe from their pets. Owners of any dog, particularly dangerous dogs like pit bulls, should secure their yards with fences and make sure that their pet habitats are enclosed. Signs should also be posted to warn the public about potentially dangerous dogs.

Many jurisdictions also have leash laws that require any dog in a public area be fitted with a collar and leash. Not only does this protect the public, but it is also important to ensure the safety of the pet.

Dog bites happen all the time and often result in severe and painful injuries or even death. The law holds dog owners responsible for the behavior of their pets and provides methods of receiving compensation for injuries that result from attacks. Consulting a personal injury lawyer or wrongful death attorney is the only way for victims to make sure that they receive fair compensation for their injuries.

About The Author:
At the Shea Law Group we are experienced and highly effective Chicago personal injury lawyers. We understand the financial, emotional and physical toll that an accident takes on you and your loved ones. For free initial consultation visit SheaLawGroup.com or call us at -1-877-365-0040.

Sunday, May 2, 2010

How to choose the right Cat Food!

By Greg Podsakoff
As all cat owners know, a feline can be a wonderful addition to any family. One of the most basic aspects of cat ownership is proper health care for the cat. Health care for a cat encompasses a wide array of vaccine shots, flea protection, vet visits, medications, and even proper exercise.

As all cat owners know, a feline can be a wonderful addition to any family. One of the most basic aspects of cat ownership is proper health care for the cat. Health care for a cat encompasses a wide array of vaccine shots, flea protection, vet visits, medications, and even proper exercise.

However, the most important aspect of cat health is also often overlooked. People spend hundreds of hours and thousands of dollars over the lifetime of a cat to keep it healthy, but most cat owners don't pay nearly enough attention to the proper cat food.

The right cat food is absolutely essential to a healthy, happy cat.

But what is the best cat food for your cat? While each cat will have slightly different nutritional needs, there are some general rules that must be considered when looking for cat food.

First of all, cats (like their human owners) need a high quality diet. This means the best types of protein, fats, carbs, and the less preservatives and chemical additives, the better. Most of the research available online does not compare specific brands of cat food, as much as specific ingredients to feed your cat, and which to stay away from!

Cats need a high protein diet. Wild cats are very carnivorous, and cats derive a great deal of their nutritional needs from protein. House cats, while not wild, still have many of the same nutritional needs as their wild feline ancestors. So, the most important ingredient in any cat food is protein.

Carbohydrates are also an important part of a cats diet, though not as important as protein. Cats really should derive the majority of their nutritional needs from protein, so cat foods that are high in carbohydrates may not necessarily be the best for them.

Interestingly enough, many of the premium brands of cat food, such as Eukanuba and Innova offer exactly what most cats need, and aren't necessarily more expensive in the long run. This is because high end cat foods need a smaller serving amount than the low end cat foods to give a cat all the nutrients they need to be satisfied and healthy.

When comparing a premium brand such as Eukanuba, to a lower cost brand such as Purina, they cost difference for the recommended serving size is only a nickel a day. Furthermore, because a cat will eat less of the high end cat food, their waste will be reduced. This can cut down on the frequency of litter replacement and litter box related chores.

Another aspect of cat food to be considered is the quality of the protein in the food. Because of the way many pet food companies describe the meat in the food, it can be difficult to figure out exactly what the difference between "chicken flavored", and "chicken dinner" is.

Food that contains "chicken meal" can only be made from the skin, flesh, and bones only. This is really the best type of protein for a cat. Food that has "meat byproducts" can contain nearly any animal parts, and are of lower quality than "chicken meal". Food that is "chicken flavored" only has to taste like chicken, but may not contain any animal meat at all. Also, chicken is generally better than beef for cats.

And it goes without saying, preservatives, as well as artificial colors, should be avoided whenever possible. Although specific research is lacking on this subject, we do know that preservatives and artificial colors can have a negative impact on human health. It is only logical that cats will also be negatively affected by artificial colors and preservatives in their cat food.

With the vast selection of cat food on the market, it is easy to be intimidated and just pull the cheapest variety off of the shelf. Just remember what's good for your cat and read the labels. Always remember, a little research can go a long way when it come to the health and well being of your cat.

About the Author
Greg Podsakoff is one of the owners of Hercules the cat and an editor at http://www.cat-care-cat-information.com.

Friday, January 1, 2010

Leash Train Your Cat - 7 Easy Steps

By Bonnie Dye

Most people think cats can't be trained to do tricks or walk on a leash, and that's simply not true. Look at any circus and you'll see the big cats literally jumping through hoops for their owners.

You'll want to start with the right equipment. It’s best to use a harness rather than just a collar, for two reasons. First, a cat can quickly and easily wiggle out of a collar – their heads are not much bigger than their necks. Second, a harness will protect your cat from injury, since part of the harness goes around the cat’s body, rather than just its neck. Choose a leash and harness made from lightweight nylon. Cats are easily weighed down even by the weight of the leash clip if it’s too heavy.

Here are 7 easy steps to leash training your cat:

NOTE: To easily restrain your cat, position the cat so it's standing, facing away from you, then put your arm around the front of its shoulders below the neck. Hold it gently backed up against you. No need for a lot of force. The cat may wiggle, but it'll mostly be convinced it can't get away, so it won't try.

1)Introduce the harness

While your cat is relaxed, slip the first loop of the harness over the cat's head and around its neck. The cat will wiggle a lot!

2)Re-introduce the harness (I know!)

If the cat gets away from you, stay relaxed and it will quickly calm down. After a minute or so, go pick up the harness and start again. Be prepared to restrain your cat this time, so it doesn't create a habit of running away.

3)Fasten the harness

Act quickly here. Fasten the harness then immediately let the cat go! It will run, squirm, and wiggle for 2 or 3 minutes before it lies down and tries to lick the harness off.

4)Attach the leash

When your pet stops, walk over, stroke and talk to it, then click the leash onto the harness, letting the leash hang loosely over the cat's back.

5)Bring out a toy

The average cat will immediately lay flat on the floor on its stomach with all four legs sprawled out. Have a toy ready – choose something on a string the cat likes to chase.

6)Play with leash attached

Your cat will play, quickly forgetting the weight on its back. After 2-3 minutes, let the cat rest with the leash still attached.

7)Remove the harness

Your cat now understands it can move around even while wearing a harness and leash. Unhook the leash, and after about 15 minutes, remove the harness.

Next day, put the harness on, let the cat go about its business, and after 15-20 minutes, remove the harness.

Third day, attach the harness and leash and keep hold of it with no pressure on the cat. Let your cat lead you around while it gets used to the slight weight it's feeling, then exert pressure on the leash to let the cat know you're taking the lead. If the cat resists, don't drag it. Encourage it toward you with a treat or a toy.

Most adult cats are prepared to go outside by the fourth day, and I once had a ten week old kitten who was ready on the first day after only about 45 minutes!

That’s really all there is to it! In a very short time you’ll be able to walk through the park with your cat prancing proudly beside you. They love showing off their personal grandeur, and will quickly learn to walk with head and tail held high.

About the Author: Bonnie Dye has raised, trained and cared for dogs and cats for over 30 years. She is the co-author of "What Your Pets Want You to Know". To get your free report, "Secrets to Happy and Obedient Pets" go to Free Pet Care Tipshttp://www.isnare.com/

Source:

Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=449624&ca=Pets

Sunday, December 27, 2009

Common Cat Diseases

By Jon Hartford

Cats, like any other pet and humans, sometimes get sick. Some symptoms aren't particularly worrisome, but some indicate life-threatening illness. All pet owners need to pay attention to the health of their pet and make sure to find out cause of the problem before it can get worse.

Although there are lots of different symptoms and diseases that cats can get, there are a few that make up a decent percentage of problems. Whatever the issue, make sure that you get medical attention from your veterinarian if your pets' condition gets worse or if it already needed treatment in the first place.

One symptom that is very common in cats is vomiting. Most of the time, this is caused be hairballs, but there can be other reasons for your cat throwing up. If your cat gets hairballs often, increase the combing, brushing, or petting you are giving your cat. Some cats shed more than others, and long-haired cats can need increased grooming. Your cat may need to be brushed every week or two down to every couple days. Another reason for cats throwing up include having a hard time digesting the food you're feeding it, or even being allergic to its ingredients. Make sure your cat is getting enough water and doesn't get dehydrated. If your cat gets worse, make sure you discuss the problem with your cats' veterinarian.

Just like people, some diabetes is common in cats. If your cat has diabetes, you have to be very careful about its diet. Some signs include urinating frequently and getting thirsty very quickly. Beware if your normally energetic cat becomes lethargic. Even though many cats get less active as they grow old, a sudden change in activity could be a sign of diabetes. A diabetic cat can be harder to care for and you need to coordinate with your vet to properly diagnose your cat and treat it.

Diarrhea is often caused by diet. Give your cat a balanced diet and make sure they get enough liquids. Feeding a cat entirely dry food can contribute to kidney failure, but many cats can't stand an entirely wet food diet either. Change your cats diet and contact your vet if your cat keeps getting diarrhea or has it often.

A troubling new disease that is affecting outdoor cats is FIV. Like its human counterpart, HIV, it is spread sexually. Getting your cat spayed or neutered does not protect against FIV. In some areas FIV is becoming a major problem--you may have to keep your cat indoors all the time. If you live in a city or area with a feral cat population, it's best to limit your cats outdoor time as much as possible. Make sure that you take your cat to your vet quickly if you suspect your cat has this disease.

Remember to watch your cats health--cats can't dial for help. (At least, I don't know of any cats that know how to use a phone...;) Educate yourself more about cat illnesses and don't underestimate the dangers to your pet.

About the Author: This article is courtesy of Nifty Pet. Learn more about cats, dogs, and other pets or view the original article.

Source: http://www.isnare.com/

Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=456615&ca=Pets

Sunday, December 20, 2009

A Death Of A Beloved Pet

Written By BETTE J.

I have, like everyone that has ever had a pet die, felt the loss of a dear friend of so many years of faithful companionship. I have lost my dear pets of a cat of two years, a cat of 13 years, a dog of 13 years, and a dog of 15 years; all within the last two and half years. It seems as through the hurt will never end but I know it will in time.

The house seems so empty without them now. My other pets are still searching for their friends. They will also adjust to the loss and once again become their fun loving selves.

As I look back over the years, the number of family pets that have past from this world is actually very high in numbers. Our family has always had special pets to each of us. They may have been cats, rabbits, gerbils, dogs, iguana, frogs, newts, fish, and snails. They all had their own personalities and supplied much entertainment for each of us to enjoy throughout their lives with us.

My children learned to care for the pet they choose to get. And each had a lot to learn about taking care of their chosen animal. The time spent with their pet was worth all the training that the child and pet received by living in the same house.

I think people are better off with pets than not having any pet to share their life with. Animals can be a great companion. Animals seem to except you with all your faults and short comings. They love to be with you no matter what is going on around them. Most pets only want to please you and make you happy.

They seem to get into your heart and share feelings that a member of your family most likely would share. When an elderly animal passes away, the loss is felt very deeply to the persons around them. The other animals also grieve for their missing friend and companion.

As time goes by, the pet is never forgotten, but the hurt and emptiness is less and less. Soon life will be back to normal. The memory of your pet will never be forgotten, but the good times and the fun time will be remembered forever. The process is continued with new pets that are loved just as much as all of the older pets that have pass in time.

Sunday, June 28, 2009

Dogs and Hot Summer Days

By Patricia Ellison

If you’re having sunny weather it can be oh-so enticing to get outside with your dog and have a good time. There are so many things you can do from throwing a Frisbee or stick to hanging out at the beach. But, are you aware there is a danger that your dog will get sunburn, heat exhaustion or even heat stroke. The good news is that you can prevent these things from happening to your dog.

Sunburn Protection

You might not have even thought it but the sun can burn your dog. Particularly sensitive areas are the nose, ears, and lips. If possible keep your dog in the shade between the hottest hours of the day. These are usually between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. If there is no shade available you can put sunscreen on your dog’s nose and other sensitive areas.

It is not safe to put sunscreen on your dog’s lips. Just keep an eye on them to be sure there is no sunburn. Any blistering needs to be examined by a veterinarian.

Heat Exhaustion and Heat Stroke

Have you ever left your dog in a parked car? If so, it’s definitely time to stop. In fact, leaving a dog in a car is the number one reason that dogs get heat stroke. They can also develop it if they are too active on a very hot day and don’t have a shady spot to go to.

If your dog is overweight or has a history of lung or heart disease you need to be extra careful. Older dogs are particularly susceptible to getting heat exhaustion or heat stroke.

Leaving your dog in your air conditioned home is best if you are going to be out running errands. If you must take your dog with you, leave them in the car with the air conditioner still running, preferably with a human with them.

Try not to take your dog exercising with you. Some people like to take their dogs power walking, jogging and cycling. Call it a day if your dog falls behind or seems overly hot or tired.

Be especially careful with dogs that live outside, these owners need to provide a shady area for them to go during the day. Ventilated doghouses and umbrellas that can do the trick.

It is best to keep older dogs inside no matter what when it’s very hot. You might even want to keep a fan on your dog to make sure he stays nice and cool.

Finally, keep an eye out for danger zones such as hot, black pavement, the bed of a truck, or beach sand. If you allow your dog to be on these areas he might get blisters. Stick to grassy areas if at all possible.

Water is Essential

Be sure there is clean, cool water available at all times. Giving your dog water is one of the number one way that you can prevent heat problems. This will stop dehydrations and other heat problems in their tracks.

Enjoy The Season But Use Caution

Yes, we all look forward to summer days and enjoying the sun after the chilly days of winter, but it is entirely up to us to use caution and keep our children and pets safe from the dangerous effects of the summer sun.

About the Author: Patricia Ellison is an experienced Chihuahua Breeder and dog lover, her kennel is located in Chiloquin, Oregon. Patricia provides vital dog care and training information to dog lovers worldwide at Patz-Dogs.com Although she exclusively breeds and sells Chihuahua, info is provided on many breeds

Source: www.isnare.com

Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=379377&ca=Pets

Protect Your Dog From Lyme Disease

By Jeff Nenadic

Lyme disease is a disease that affects the pets. It has recently been accepted and recognized and infects the pets. It is a dangerous disease which is known to cause paralysis in advanced stages. Hence, one should be aware of this disease so that timely medical help can prevent your beloved pet from further suffering. Humans too can be affected by this. Pets are more prone to this disease from spring through fall.

The Lyme disease is common in Northwestern and Midwestern parts of US. Over 40 states have reported numerous cases since 1975. The carrier of this disease is deer tick which is transmitted to pets from white-tailed deer and white-footed mice. The deer tick can not hop or fly on its own and needs to be carried over. It waits on the grounds among the plants in wooded areas or tall grassed areas where the deer, mice and ticks are found in abundance. The ticks then stick to the bodies of these animals whenever they pass by.

These ticks generally stick and bite the head, ears, feet and neck of the dog. Unfortunately, the bite is not like the bees and mosquitoes and causes no pain. Thus, it is difficult to detect the disease until advanced stages. At times, the full bodies of the pets can be infested by ticks and yet the pets do not show any sign of pain. Hence, one has to be alert and get the dog regularly checked up.

Lyme disease symptoms include fever, sluggishness, plus sudden lameness accompanied with pain, warmth and swelling in the joints of the pet. At times, the tick bite can cause inflammation of the skin and round areas around the bite are formed. However, this can go unnoticed due to the thick fur and coat of the dog. If you suspect anything amiss, consult the vet immediately as an early treatment is good and beneficial for the dog. As the disease advances, both rear and front limbs are attacked. Later on, both the chest and respiratory muscles are attacked. At times, the respiratory muscles can become non-functional which can suffocate the dog. As the disease progresses, paralysis occurs and the hospitalization of the dog is inevitable in the advanced stages.

You can always learn more of this disease from the amazon.com site which has a host of books, literature by using search phrases like Lyme disease dogs. You can also modify your searches by your choice like rank, name, price etc. This can be done via the drop down option available on the search page. In case, you are short of money, you can always note the names of the books you liked from the Amazon site and search your public library for them or even more books. You can then borrow them and read them in the spare time at home or office. You can also search ebay.com for a host of information (books, cassettes, videos etc.). You can check out the prices at the price comparison site, MySsimon.com. Besides, you can also perform an online search via google.com.

About the Author: Written by Jeff Nenadic from My Dog Shop - check for current specials on chew toys online.

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Monday, September 29, 2008

Names For Kittens - 15 Ways To Choose The Perfect Name

By Jenny Jackson

Choosing a name for your beautiful new kitten or cat can be difficult - especially if you want an interesting name or one that has particular meaning.

Try to avoid choosing a long name, as it is likely to be abbreviated. Consider how the name would be shortened and whether you like the shortened form.

It is also important to consider whether you will be comfortable calling out the name, or if not you, other members of the household.

1. Appearance

Looking at your kittens coloring or coat pattern, what words come to mind? Grey cats might suggest Smokey or Misty. Calico cats might suggest Patchwork or Cookie.

2. Books and Film

Who are your favorite book or movie characters? Who are your favorite authors? Names like Sherlock or Agatha may appeal if you like mysteries. Dickens or Bronte? Harry or Hermione? If you like older films, maybe Groucho or Harpo. You could surely create a huge list of possibilities here.

3. Cartoons

Cartoon cats to consider are Tom, Sylvester or Garfield. Disney and Dreamworks films offer a plethora of character names...Ariel, Bambi, Aladdin, Shrek, Mulan, Woody, Buzz.

4. Gods/Goddesses

Some examples are Aurora, Zeus, Aphrodite, Venus, Mercury and Apollo.

5. Philosophers

Plato, Socrates, Aristotle, Descartes, Nietzsche, Voltaire...

6. Musicians

Classical music lovers might like Mozart, Strauss, Beethoven, Brahms, Bach, Vivaldi, Chopin or Puccini. Modern music lovers might like Elvis, Zeppelin, Dylan, Joplin, Madonna or Bowie.

7. Pairs

If you are naming a pair of kittens, consider famous couples or duos such as Sonny and Cher, Oscar and Lucinda, Simon and Garfunkle, Napoleon and Josephine, Torville and Dean, Rain and Bow, Adam and Eve, Fish and Chips, Salt and Vinegar, Abbott and Costello.

8. Sport

Sport stars offer lots of name possibilities. If you're into tennis, you might like Sampras, McEnroe, Agassi, Stefi or Martina. Boxing fans might like Ali or Hurricane. Soccer enthusiasts might like Beckham or Pele.

9. Fashion

Fashion designers and models provide good possibilities for your kitten's name. Dior, Chanel, Coco, Armani, Tyra, Claudia, Giselle, Prada, Hugo, Gucci, Cartier, Fendi, Dolce, Tiffany, Zegna, Ray Bands, Hermes, Lacroix, Givenchy, Hermes.

10. Food

The possibilities are endless. For sweets, there is Baci, Sugar, Toffee, Fudge, Choc and Biscuit. Herbs and spices are another helpful category - Basil, Nutmeg, Cinnamon, Sage, Ginger, Pepper, Saffron and Vanilla.

11. Places

What's your favorite city or town? Sydney, Melbourne, Paris, Milan, London, Aspen, Cairo, China, Vienna, Congo, Giza, Kashmir, Reno.

12. Historical

Mythology, politics and science could give you some great ideas, like Nightingale, Avalon, Aztec, Camelot, Delilah, Evita, Godiva, Sheeba, Einstein, Freud and Edison.

13. Titles

Is your kitten rather regal? Countess, Duchess, Fraulein, Senorita, Dame, Madam, Duke, Earl, Baron, Viscount, Queen, Princess, Prince, Lady to name a few.

14. Nature

Inspiration can come from gems, flowers, trees, animals and weather. Bamboo, Amber, Crystal, Blossom, Bonsai, Buttercup, Coral, Cosmic, Tempest, Daisy, Firefly, Cougar, Nimbus, Nova and Opal.

15. Alcohol

Wines, spirits and beers offer lots of inspiration...Amaretto, Baccardi, Vodka, Whisky, Brandy, Champagne, Daiquiri, Kahlua, Madeira, Margarita, Moet, Moonshine and Shiraz.

About the Author: You are welcome to reproduce this article on your pet or family related web site, as long as you reproduce the article in full, including this resource box and link to http://www.great-pictures-of-cats.com which features photo and video galleries of beautiful cats.

Source: www.isnare.com

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Heated Sleeper For Your Cherished Home Pet

By Trevor Price

Heated pet beds aren't just an indulgence - they're often a necessity, particularly for old dogs with sore joints or arthritis, whelping puppies or animals that are sleeping outside, in a basement or garage.

There are three specific styles of electric pet beds. These are mats, insert warmers and complete, full-sized heated beds. To learn more about each kind of bed, keep reading.

Heating Mats for Pet Beds

Pet owners love heated mats because they're versatile. Whether you want to position them in a kennel, slap them on the bottom of a dog house or just lay one over a favorite sleeping surface, you can do it. They're also flexible for size, meaning they can fit different sizes of animals.

Before you use a heated pet mat outside, make sure it's certified for outdoor use. So, if you're planning to use your pet mat in a damp garage or dog house, look for one that's made with waterproof plastic and has an outdoor-graded power cord. Outdoor models typically come with fleece covers, which are fine. Just make sure you wash and dry them if they get wet or soiled.

Pet Bed Warmer Inserts

A pet bed warmer is great for pets that like to move around. The small insert can be moved from one bed to another. And because it's small, it uses a lot less power than a full-sized heated pet bed.

Pet bed warmers are small and portable, but that also means they don't hold up well under heavy conditions. So, if you need a warmer for the outdoor dog house or a cold basement, you may want to invest in a heavy-grade, heated mat.

Before you buy a pet bed warmer, make sure it has a temperature control - you want to be able to adjust the warmth so that it doesn't get too hot. Also, look for one that can handle a little scratching and biting.

Full Heated Pet Beds

A full-sized heated bed is the right choice if your pet likes a cupped bed, typically referred to as a "snuggle bed." They're sold in a range of styles and grades, depending on the size of your animal and whether it's staying outside or indoors.

Obviously, if you're buying a heated bed to keep your Chinese Crested Dog warm at night or you're buying one to soothe your Great Dane's arthritis, you'd size your snuggle bed accordingly.

When it comes to purchasing heated pet beds, no one model is better than the other. If you're looking for small and portable, opt for the insert. On the other hand, if you prefer durability and power, go for the mat. And if you just need a basic bed with a little bit of added warmth, then choose the full-sized bed.

Remember, your beloved pet has needs for warmth in cold, damp places much like people. A heated mat or bed is really a small cost to provide a little extra comfort.

About the Author: For helpful information about pet supplies, please visit petsuppliestips.com, a popular site about needs for your beloved pet, such as cheap dog crates, health care for pets, and many more!

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Sunday, September 28, 2008

How Not to Catch a Bat in Three Days

By Kim Pearson

Day One, evening

It is dark when I get home. I am tired. I go into my office to check my email. I turn on the light and find a bat swooping through the room. Swoop swoop swoop.

Yes, I know bats eat insects and are harmless. I'm afraid of them anyway.

I shut the office door. I'll deal with the bat in the morning. In daylight the advantage will belong to me. I hope.

Day Two, morning

Armed with a broom and my Tupperware critter-trapper, I tiptoe up to the office door and press my ear against it. I hear nothing. I squeak the door open and peer through the crack. I see nothing swooping through the air. I open the door wider and look high on the walls, in corners, behind the blinds and pictures. Nothing. It looks like the bat is gone.

But I know it can't be gone because I don't believe in disappearing ghost bats.

I invite the two cats, including Mab the Mighty Hunter who has been known to bring down crows and squirrels, to check out the office. They come in, yawn, and Mab cleans her face. I call for my beagle Goody, hoping she will smell the bat. Goody wags her tail and asks to go for a walk. Clearly the animals know no more than I do about the bat's whereabouts. Or they don't care.

I sit at my desk. I wonder when and where the bat will appear. My peripheral vision is on alert. A surprise bat is much worse than a swooping bat. I feel like I'm in an Alfred Hitchcock movie. I know the bat is here. It is lurking in a place no one would ever suspect - an innocent, everyday sort of place. As soon as I let down my guard and relax into my working day, I will move a piece of paper or something and - SWOOP!

I don't know how much work I will get done today. Suddenly it seems like a nice day to work in the garden, despite the rain.

Day Two, afternoon

The bat is still at large. I could not find it even when I shined a flashlight into every corner of the room.

It's starting to get dark. Soon it will be Bat Time. It will have to come out because it will be hungry. So I have made a plan. I take the screen off the office window and open the window as far as it will go. Turning off the lights, I leave the office and shut the door. Surely the bat will fly out on its own as soon as it gets dark.

Day 2, evening

It's been dark for some time now. I squeak open the office door and turn on the light. No bat. I breathe a sigh of relief. My plan has worked and the bat is now off enjoying a healthy dinner of mosquitoes.

I make a big mistake. I go into the living room to watch a little TV - leaving the office door open. All is peaceful for an hour but then, in the midst of Biography on A&E, the bat bursts into the living room, with two cats in hot pursuit.

Swoop swoop thunder crash. The bat flies over the dining room table and the cats follow, knocking the candles over. Luckily they're not alight. The bat flies into the living room and the cats skitter across a whatnot table with the whatnots hurtling after them. The bat swoops down the hallway, and the cats make amazing leaps and twirls that would qualify for Olympic Gold.

They are accompanied by a hysterical beagle, having the absolute time of her life and barking her head off. She hasn't the least idea of what they are chasing but it's a great game and she wishes we could do this every night.

Meanwhile I rush for my broom. I hold it aloft while chasing the bat/cats/beagle, ducking when the bat swoops toward me. I emit high pitched squeals which I don't seem to be able to control. This is not fun. If bats use echolocation, then it must know it is swooping straight at my head. Clearly it is OUT TO GET ME.

Finally, Mab the Mighty Hunter leaps at least five feet into the air and her claw connects with the bat. It sails into the bathroom and lands with a soft thud. It feebly twitches its strange webbed wings, then lies still. I think the bat has resigned itself to death. I put the broom down and get the Tupperware. I tiptoe up to the bat, bend over and position the container to trap it. Just when my face is inches away, the bat springs to life again and SWOOP off it goes down the hallway.

The crazy chase begins again. I open the front door and back door, with a vague idea of "herding" the bat outside. But bats are not herd animals so this does not work.

I give up. Evidently the bat has chosen this difficult way to die. Who am I to deny it its right to choose?

I shut all internal doors, close and lock the front door but leave the back door ajar. I leave the bat and cats in the front of the house, to their fate. I know this is the coward's way out, but I go to bed anyway, locking my bedroom door.

If burglars choose my house tonight, they will have deal with the bat.

Day 3, morning

I open my bedroom door and creep down the hallway into the kitchen. I steel myself to find a bat corpse on the floor. But no. No signs of a bat, not even guano. The cats are asleep on the sofa. There are no traces of blood on their whiskers.

I make another traipse through the house with the flashlight. I find nothing. Did the bat fly out the back door?

Maybe. Maybe not. I guess I'll find out tonight.

About the Author: Kim Pearson is the author of five books, including Dog Park Diary, and a ghostwriter of more than thirty non-fiction books. Dog Park Diary is the first she has ghostwritten for a dog. For more about Dog Park Diary, visit Dog Park Diary, and for more about Kim’s ghostwriting services, visit Primary Sources.


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How Low Cost and Poor Grade Crates Can be Unsafe For Your Pet

By Trevor Price

Cheap dog crates can do more than save you money - they may actually kill or injure your dog. Poorly constructed metal and plastic crates cause over 100 dog deaths every year due to cuts, infections and even strangulation. Before you waste your money and possibly your dog's life on a cheap crate, keep reading.

Not Good Enough for Air Travel

There's a reason most cheap dog crates aren't cleared for air travel - they're unsafe and not suited for air travel conditions. Typically, most air crates need to be easily opened and closed from the outside and provide the animal with enough ventilation and protection. More important, a good carrier needs to be made from heavy-dutyplastic. Last year, over 5 dogs were hurt after cheap plastic dog crates cracked because of pressure changes. The cracked and chipped plastic either cut or hit the animals. Obviously, their injuries were not noticed or treated until well after the plane landed.

Collapsing Crates

Stay away from low-quality, wire crates that are collapsible. Numerous consumers have complained these crates do not hold up and can simply collapse on the animal without warning - ascenario that can be deadly for small puppies. While adult dogs typically won't be severely injured by a collapsed crate, being trapped for possibly hours is stressful and causes anxiety.

Poor Ventilation

Cheap dog crates that are made from plastic or fabric tend to not offer enough ventilation for your animal, making them feel trapped and as though they're not getting enough air. Several years ago, dogs in a California kennel were found dead after being kept in cheap, plastic kennels that were too small. The dogs suffocated.

Another danger associated with poorly ventilated fabric or plastic dog crates is overheating. Without sufficient ventholes, your dog can quickly be overcome by heat on a hot summer day spent inside a plastic crate.

How to Find a Good Crate

Look for a high-quality crate that is easily opened from the outside, provides sufficient ventilation and is large enough for the animal. While high-quality wire crates aren't cleared for air travel, they are great when coupled with a crate mat for the bottom.

Other Crate Safety Rules

It doesn't matter if you're buying a cheap dog crate or the most expensive one in the store. There are some basic safety rules that apply to all:

  1. Take off the dog's collar before you put it in the crate since the collar could get caught and choke the dog.
  2. Provide your dog with toys and water while crated.
  3. Never leave a dog in a crate for more than four or five hours - it's cruel and unhealthy.

It is easy to take a beloved canine for granted and assume that since it's an animal, it will be content in confined and uncomfortable settings. However, the choice of a crate goes beyond mere comfort to your pet's safety and (potentially) survival. You should make your selection on a purchase accordingly.

About the Author: For information on pet supplies, seehttp://www.petsuppliestips.com, a popular site about needs for your beloved pet, such as alternative medicine for dogs -http://www.petsuppliestips.com/alternative-medicine-for-dogs.shtml, pet treatments, and many more!

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Saturday, April 19, 2008

Cat Vaccinations – An Important Preventive Procedure To A Healthy Cat

By Moses Wright

Cats seem independent and self-sufficient, but cats need just as much care and attention as other pets. Cats are prone to a number of serious diseases and it is extremely important to ensure that your cat is vaccinated from an early age. Further prevention from diseases is necessary to maintain your cat’s health with annual booster injections.

Anyone who has seen a cat in pain and distress because of a condition that could have been easily prevented by adequate care will understand why vets are so keen to promote preventive vaccination for all cats. This not only helps to prevent the development of the disease to a terminal stage but also limit the spread of these infectious diseases to the surrounding feline population.

Vaccinations are important as almost all catteries will only permit cats that have past records of vaccinations. This measure serves to protect your cat as well as to ensure other cats in the cattery are not infected should your cat be ill. Even cats that have been vaccinated can sometimes contract a variant of the disease and the less risk there is to the cattery as a whole the better.

Travel restrictions for pets can be stringent for most European countries. If you are considering traveling with your pet you will need to carry all available documentation concerning your pet's health and vaccination record, and you may need to show evidence of feline veterinarian treatment including deworming schedules. Without these documents, your cat may have to be quarantined for up to six months, thus it would be import, so do check with your travel agency to make sure you have all the documentation you may need.

Kittens should be vaccinated from the age of nine weeks. They are then vaccinated again at 12 weeks, and then go on to a program that would include annual booster injections.

Your vet would also advise you on the necessity of giving your cat a rabies shot, particularly if your cat has contact with other feral cats in the neighborhood and gets into scrapes. A point to note is that the rabies shot is a requirement if you are traveling to any country within Europe.

The four main vaccinations a cat can have from the age of nine weeks are the following:

Feline infectious enterovirus (FIE, also known as the feline panleukopaenia virus.

Feline herpesvirus (otherwise known as feline calcivirus, or cat flu)

Feline leukaemia. A vet will test a cat's blood to see if there is already an immunity built up from previous contact, and if the test shows negative i.e. there has been no contact and therefore no immunity built up the cat should be vaccinated.

Feline Chlamydophila, which causes conjunctivitis. Again your cat may already have built up an immunity so your vet can check for antibodies in the bloodstream and vaccinate if the test comes back negative to previous contact.

Vaccination may save your cat’s life should it get into any contact with any horrifying diseases. Although vaccines do hold risk for a small minority of cats who received them, proper vaccination is still the best solution and protection your cat can have against infectious disease.

About the Author: Moses Wright is the webmaster of http://www.CatCustomer.com. He provides more information on Cat Health, Cat Veterinary Diseases and Cat Nutrition that you can learn in the comfort of your home. You are welcome to reprint this article if you keep the content and live link intact.

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