By Jenny Jackson
Choosing a name for your beautiful new kitten or cat can be difficult - especially if you want an interesting name or one that has particular meaning.
Try to avoid choosing a long name, as it is likely to be abbreviated. Consider how the name would be shortened and whether you like the shortened form.
It is also important to consider whether you will be comfortable calling out the name, or if not you, other members of the household.
1. Appearance
Looking at your kittens coloring or coat pattern, what words come to mind? Grey cats might suggest Smokey or Misty. Calico cats might suggest Patchwork or Cookie.
2. Books and Film
Who are your favorite book or movie characters? Who are your favorite authors? Names like Sherlock or Agatha may appeal if you like mysteries. Dickens or Bronte? Harry or Hermione? If you like older films, maybe Groucho or Harpo. You could surely create a huge list of possibilities here.
3. Cartoons
Cartoon cats to consider are Tom, Sylvester or Garfield. Disney and Dreamworks films offer a plethora of character names...Ariel, Bambi, Aladdin, Shrek, Mulan, Woody, Buzz.
4. Gods/Goddesses
Some examples are Aurora, Zeus, Aphrodite, Venus, Mercury and Apollo.
5. Philosophers
Plato, Socrates, Aristotle, Descartes, Nietzsche, Voltaire...
6. Musicians
Classical music lovers might like Mozart, Strauss, Beethoven, Brahms, Bach, Vivaldi, Chopin or Puccini. Modern music lovers might like Elvis, Zeppelin, Dylan, Joplin, Madonna or Bowie.
7. Pairs
If you are naming a pair of kittens, consider famous couples or duos such as Sonny and Cher, Oscar and Lucinda, Simon and Garfunkle, Napoleon and Josephine, Torville and Dean, Rain and Bow, Adam and Eve, Fish and Chips, Salt and Vinegar, Abbott and Costello.
8. Sport
Sport stars offer lots of name possibilities. If you're into tennis, you might like Sampras, McEnroe, Agassi, Stefi or Martina. Boxing fans might like Ali or Hurricane. Soccer enthusiasts might like Beckham or Pele.
9. Fashion
Fashion designers and models provide good possibilities for your kitten's name. Dior, Chanel, Coco, Armani, Tyra, Claudia, Giselle, Prada, Hugo, Gucci, Cartier, Fendi, Dolce, Tiffany, Zegna, Ray Bands, Hermes, Lacroix, Givenchy, Hermes.
10. Food
The possibilities are endless. For sweets, there is Baci, Sugar, Toffee, Fudge, Choc and Biscuit. Herbs and spices are another helpful category - Basil, Nutmeg, Cinnamon, Sage, Ginger, Pepper, Saffron and Vanilla.
11. Places
What's your favorite city or town? Sydney, Melbourne, Paris, Milan, London, Aspen, Cairo, China, Vienna, Congo, Giza, Kashmir, Reno.
12. Historical
Mythology, politics and science could give you some great ideas, like Nightingale, Avalon, Aztec, Camelot, Delilah, Evita, Godiva, Sheeba, Einstein, Freud and Edison.
13. Titles
Is your kitten rather regal? Countess, Duchess, Fraulein, Senorita, Dame, Madam, Duke, Earl, Baron, Viscount, Queen, Princess, Prince, Lady to name a few.
14. Nature
Inspiration can come from gems, flowers, trees, animals and weather. Bamboo, Amber, Crystal, Blossom, Bonsai, Buttercup, Coral, Cosmic, Tempest, Daisy, Firefly, Cougar, Nimbus, Nova and Opal.
15. Alcohol
Wines, spirits and beers offer lots of inspiration...Amaretto, Baccardi, Vodka, Whisky, Brandy, Champagne, Daiquiri, Kahlua, Madeira, Margarita, Moet, Moonshine and Shiraz.
About the Author: You are welcome to reproduce this article on your pet or family related web site, as long as you reproduce the article in full, including this resource box and link to http://www.great-pictures-of-cats.com which features photo and video galleries of beautiful cats.
Source: www.isnare.com
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=249336&ca=Pets
Monday, September 29, 2008
Heated Sleeper For Your Cherished Home Pet
By Trevor Price
Heated pet beds aren't just an indulgence - they're often a necessity, particularly for old dogs with sore joints or arthritis, whelping puppies or animals that are sleeping outside, in a basement or garage.
There are three specific styles of electric pet beds. These are mats, insert warmers and complete, full-sized heated beds. To learn more about each kind of bed, keep reading.
Heating Mats for Pet Beds
Pet owners love heated mats because they're versatile. Whether you want to position them in a kennel, slap them on the bottom of a dog house or just lay one over a favorite sleeping surface, you can do it. They're also flexible for size, meaning they can fit different sizes of animals.
Before you use a heated pet mat outside, make sure it's certified for outdoor use. So, if you're planning to use your pet mat in a damp garage or dog house, look for one that's made with waterproof plastic and has an outdoor-graded power cord. Outdoor models typically come with fleece covers, which are fine. Just make sure you wash and dry them if they get wet or soiled.
Pet Bed Warmer Inserts
A pet bed warmer is great for pets that like to move around. The small insert can be moved from one bed to another. And because it's small, it uses a lot less power than a full-sized heated pet bed.
Pet bed warmers are small and portable, but that also means they don't hold up well under heavy conditions. So, if you need a warmer for the outdoor dog house or a cold basement, you may want to invest in a heavy-grade, heated mat.
Before you buy a pet bed warmer, make sure it has a temperature control - you want to be able to adjust the warmth so that it doesn't get too hot. Also, look for one that can handle a little scratching and biting.
Full Heated Pet Beds
A full-sized heated bed is the right choice if your pet likes a cupped bed, typically referred to as a "snuggle bed." They're sold in a range of styles and grades, depending on the size of your animal and whether it's staying outside or indoors.
Obviously, if you're buying a heated bed to keep your Chinese Crested Dog warm at night or you're buying one to soothe your Great Dane's arthritis, you'd size your snuggle bed accordingly.
When it comes to purchasing heated pet beds, no one model is better than the other. If you're looking for small and portable, opt for the insert. On the other hand, if you prefer durability and power, go for the mat. And if you just need a basic bed with a little bit of added warmth, then choose the full-sized bed.
Remember, your beloved pet has needs for warmth in cold, damp places much like people. A heated mat or bed is really a small cost to provide a little extra comfort.
About the Author: For helpful information about pet supplies, please visit petsuppliestips.com, a popular site about needs for your beloved pet, such as cheap dog crates, health care for pets, and many more!
Source: www.isnare.com
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=292292&ca=Pets
Heated pet beds aren't just an indulgence - they're often a necessity, particularly for old dogs with sore joints or arthritis, whelping puppies or animals that are sleeping outside, in a basement or garage.
There are three specific styles of electric pet beds. These are mats, insert warmers and complete, full-sized heated beds. To learn more about each kind of bed, keep reading.
Heating Mats for Pet Beds
Pet owners love heated mats because they're versatile. Whether you want to position them in a kennel, slap them on the bottom of a dog house or just lay one over a favorite sleeping surface, you can do it. They're also flexible for size, meaning they can fit different sizes of animals.
Before you use a heated pet mat outside, make sure it's certified for outdoor use. So, if you're planning to use your pet mat in a damp garage or dog house, look for one that's made with waterproof plastic and has an outdoor-graded power cord. Outdoor models typically come with fleece covers, which are fine. Just make sure you wash and dry them if they get wet or soiled.
Pet Bed Warmer Inserts
A pet bed warmer is great for pets that like to move around. The small insert can be moved from one bed to another. And because it's small, it uses a lot less power than a full-sized heated pet bed.
Pet bed warmers are small and portable, but that also means they don't hold up well under heavy conditions. So, if you need a warmer for the outdoor dog house or a cold basement, you may want to invest in a heavy-grade, heated mat.
Before you buy a pet bed warmer, make sure it has a temperature control - you want to be able to adjust the warmth so that it doesn't get too hot. Also, look for one that can handle a little scratching and biting.
Full Heated Pet Beds
A full-sized heated bed is the right choice if your pet likes a cupped bed, typically referred to as a "snuggle bed." They're sold in a range of styles and grades, depending on the size of your animal and whether it's staying outside or indoors.
Obviously, if you're buying a heated bed to keep your Chinese Crested Dog warm at night or you're buying one to soothe your Great Dane's arthritis, you'd size your snuggle bed accordingly.
When it comes to purchasing heated pet beds, no one model is better than the other. If you're looking for small and portable, opt for the insert. On the other hand, if you prefer durability and power, go for the mat. And if you just need a basic bed with a little bit of added warmth, then choose the full-sized bed.
Remember, your beloved pet has needs for warmth in cold, damp places much like people. A heated mat or bed is really a small cost to provide a little extra comfort.
About the Author: For helpful information about pet supplies, please visit petsuppliestips.com, a popular site about needs for your beloved pet, such as cheap dog crates, health care for pets, and many more!
Source: www.isnare.com
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=292292&ca=Pets
Sunday, September 28, 2008
How Not to Catch a Bat in Three Days
By Kim Pearson
Day One, evening
It is dark when I get home. I am tired. I go into my office to check my email. I turn on the light and find a bat swooping through the room. Swoop swoop swoop.
Yes, I know bats eat insects and are harmless. I'm afraid of them anyway.
I shut the office door. I'll deal with the bat in the morning. In daylight the advantage will belong to me. I hope.
Day Two, morning
Armed with a broom and my Tupperware critter-trapper, I tiptoe up to the office door and press my ear against it. I hear nothing. I squeak the door open and peer through the crack. I see nothing swooping through the air. I open the door wider and look high on the walls, in corners, behind the blinds and pictures. Nothing. It looks like the bat is gone.
But I know it can't be gone because I don't believe in disappearing ghost bats.
I invite the two cats, including Mab the Mighty Hunter who has been known to bring down crows and squirrels, to check out the office. They come in, yawn, and Mab cleans her face. I call for my beagle Goody, hoping she will smell the bat. Goody wags her tail and asks to go for a walk. Clearly the animals know no more than I do about the bat's whereabouts. Or they don't care.
I sit at my desk. I wonder when and where the bat will appear. My peripheral vision is on alert. A surprise bat is much worse than a swooping bat. I feel like I'm in an Alfred Hitchcock movie. I know the bat is here. It is lurking in a place no one would ever suspect - an innocent, everyday sort of place. As soon as I let down my guard and relax into my working day, I will move a piece of paper or something and - SWOOP!
I don't know how much work I will get done today. Suddenly it seems like a nice day to work in the garden, despite the rain.
Day Two, afternoon
The bat is still at large. I could not find it even when I shined a flashlight into every corner of the room.
It's starting to get dark. Soon it will be Bat Time. It will have to come out because it will be hungry. So I have made a plan. I take the screen off the office window and open the window as far as it will go. Turning off the lights, I leave the office and shut the door. Surely the bat will fly out on its own as soon as it gets dark.
Day 2, evening
It's been dark for some time now. I squeak open the office door and turn on the light. No bat. I breathe a sigh of relief. My plan has worked and the bat is now off enjoying a healthy dinner of mosquitoes.
I make a big mistake. I go into the living room to watch a little TV - leaving the office door open. All is peaceful for an hour but then, in the midst of Biography on A&E, the bat bursts into the living room, with two cats in hot pursuit.
Swoop swoop thunder crash. The bat flies over the dining room table and the cats follow, knocking the candles over. Luckily they're not alight. The bat flies into the living room and the cats skitter across a whatnot table with the whatnots hurtling after them. The bat swoops down the hallway, and the cats make amazing leaps and twirls that would qualify for Olympic Gold.
They are accompanied by a hysterical beagle, having the absolute time of her life and barking her head off. She hasn't the least idea of what they are chasing but it's a great game and she wishes we could do this every night.
Meanwhile I rush for my broom. I hold it aloft while chasing the bat/cats/beagle, ducking when the bat swoops toward me. I emit high pitched squeals which I don't seem to be able to control. This is not fun. If bats use echolocation, then it must know it is swooping straight at my head. Clearly it is OUT TO GET ME.
Finally, Mab the Mighty Hunter leaps at least five feet into the air and her claw connects with the bat. It sails into the bathroom and lands with a soft thud. It feebly twitches its strange webbed wings, then lies still. I think the bat has resigned itself to death. I put the broom down and get the Tupperware. I tiptoe up to the bat, bend over and position the container to trap it. Just when my face is inches away, the bat springs to life again and SWOOP off it goes down the hallway.
The crazy chase begins again. I open the front door and back door, with a vague idea of "herding" the bat outside. But bats are not herd animals so this does not work.
I give up. Evidently the bat has chosen this difficult way to die. Who am I to deny it its right to choose?
I shut all internal doors, close and lock the front door but leave the back door ajar. I leave the bat and cats in the front of the house, to their fate. I know this is the coward's way out, but I go to bed anyway, locking my bedroom door.
If burglars choose my house tonight, they will have deal with the bat.
Day 3, morning
I open my bedroom door and creep down the hallway into the kitchen. I steel myself to find a bat corpse on the floor. But no. No signs of a bat, not even guano. The cats are asleep on the sofa. There are no traces of blood on their whiskers.
I make another traipse through the house with the flashlight. I find nothing. Did the bat fly out the back door?
Maybe. Maybe not. I guess I'll find out tonight.
About the Author: Kim Pearson is the author of five books, including Dog Park Diary, and a ghostwriter of more than thirty non-fiction books. Dog Park Diary is the first she has ghostwritten for a dog. For more about Dog Park Diary, visit Dog Park Diary, and for more about Kim’s ghostwriting services, visit Primary Sources.
Source: www.isnare.com
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=300934&ca=Pets
Day One, evening
It is dark when I get home. I am tired. I go into my office to check my email. I turn on the light and find a bat swooping through the room. Swoop swoop swoop.
Yes, I know bats eat insects and are harmless. I'm afraid of them anyway.
I shut the office door. I'll deal with the bat in the morning. In daylight the advantage will belong to me. I hope.
Day Two, morning
Armed with a broom and my Tupperware critter-trapper, I tiptoe up to the office door and press my ear against it. I hear nothing. I squeak the door open and peer through the crack. I see nothing swooping through the air. I open the door wider and look high on the walls, in corners, behind the blinds and pictures. Nothing. It looks like the bat is gone.
But I know it can't be gone because I don't believe in disappearing ghost bats.
I invite the two cats, including Mab the Mighty Hunter who has been known to bring down crows and squirrels, to check out the office. They come in, yawn, and Mab cleans her face. I call for my beagle Goody, hoping she will smell the bat. Goody wags her tail and asks to go for a walk. Clearly the animals know no more than I do about the bat's whereabouts. Or they don't care.
I sit at my desk. I wonder when and where the bat will appear. My peripheral vision is on alert. A surprise bat is much worse than a swooping bat. I feel like I'm in an Alfred Hitchcock movie. I know the bat is here. It is lurking in a place no one would ever suspect - an innocent, everyday sort of place. As soon as I let down my guard and relax into my working day, I will move a piece of paper or something and - SWOOP!
I don't know how much work I will get done today. Suddenly it seems like a nice day to work in the garden, despite the rain.
Day Two, afternoon
The bat is still at large. I could not find it even when I shined a flashlight into every corner of the room.
It's starting to get dark. Soon it will be Bat Time. It will have to come out because it will be hungry. So I have made a plan. I take the screen off the office window and open the window as far as it will go. Turning off the lights, I leave the office and shut the door. Surely the bat will fly out on its own as soon as it gets dark.
Day 2, evening
It's been dark for some time now. I squeak open the office door and turn on the light. No bat. I breathe a sigh of relief. My plan has worked and the bat is now off enjoying a healthy dinner of mosquitoes.
I make a big mistake. I go into the living room to watch a little TV - leaving the office door open. All is peaceful for an hour but then, in the midst of Biography on A&E, the bat bursts into the living room, with two cats in hot pursuit.
Swoop swoop thunder crash. The bat flies over the dining room table and the cats follow, knocking the candles over. Luckily they're not alight. The bat flies into the living room and the cats skitter across a whatnot table with the whatnots hurtling after them. The bat swoops down the hallway, and the cats make amazing leaps and twirls that would qualify for Olympic Gold.
They are accompanied by a hysterical beagle, having the absolute time of her life and barking her head off. She hasn't the least idea of what they are chasing but it's a great game and she wishes we could do this every night.
Meanwhile I rush for my broom. I hold it aloft while chasing the bat/cats/beagle, ducking when the bat swoops toward me. I emit high pitched squeals which I don't seem to be able to control. This is not fun. If bats use echolocation, then it must know it is swooping straight at my head. Clearly it is OUT TO GET ME.
Finally, Mab the Mighty Hunter leaps at least five feet into the air and her claw connects with the bat. It sails into the bathroom and lands with a soft thud. It feebly twitches its strange webbed wings, then lies still. I think the bat has resigned itself to death. I put the broom down and get the Tupperware. I tiptoe up to the bat, bend over and position the container to trap it. Just when my face is inches away, the bat springs to life again and SWOOP off it goes down the hallway.
The crazy chase begins again. I open the front door and back door, with a vague idea of "herding" the bat outside. But bats are not herd animals so this does not work.
I give up. Evidently the bat has chosen this difficult way to die. Who am I to deny it its right to choose?
I shut all internal doors, close and lock the front door but leave the back door ajar. I leave the bat and cats in the front of the house, to their fate. I know this is the coward's way out, but I go to bed anyway, locking my bedroom door.
If burglars choose my house tonight, they will have deal with the bat.
Day 3, morning
I open my bedroom door and creep down the hallway into the kitchen. I steel myself to find a bat corpse on the floor. But no. No signs of a bat, not even guano. The cats are asleep on the sofa. There are no traces of blood on their whiskers.
I make another traipse through the house with the flashlight. I find nothing. Did the bat fly out the back door?
Maybe. Maybe not. I guess I'll find out tonight.
About the Author: Kim Pearson is the author of five books, including Dog Park Diary, and a ghostwriter of more than thirty non-fiction books. Dog Park Diary is the first she has ghostwritten for a dog. For more about Dog Park Diary, visit Dog Park Diary, and for more about Kim’s ghostwriting services, visit Primary Sources.
Source: www.isnare.com
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=300934&ca=Pets
Tips When Traveling With Your Dog
By Geoffrey English
Traveling with a dog can be tough. Dogs can experience apprehension, over-excitement, dread, nausea and downright fear when they are forced to travel. Some dogs actually are nomadic in nature, and so might love to travel, but bark at people or other animals, are restless, or attempt to escape while traveling. Planning your trip carefully will enable you to relax and enjoy your trip more fully, and enable your dog to be secure and happy for the duration of the ride.
It is always wise before traveling to have your dog seen by a veterinarian. This is especially true if you are traveling across state lines or into other countries. Your vet will check for illnesses, injuries or conditions that might preclude your dog from travel. Upon request, your veterinarian will provide you with a certificate of health, and a copy of your dogs’ Rabies vaccination. These documents are necessary to gain entry into other countries. While receiving vaccinations, you should also ask your vet to vaccinate your dog against Bordatella and parvovirus, as some areas that you may be traveling to may have outbreaks of either or both.
If you will be flying with your dog, it is vital to have a clear understanding of the airline’s regulations concerning dogs. Most airlines insist that you use only airline-approved travel crates, that your dog’s documentation be posted to the side of the crate, and that the crate have 24-48 hours worth of food, and any needed medications. Beware that a large percentage of airlines have the 80 degree rule: if the temperature at any point along the flight is projected to reach eighty degrees or higher, your dog will not be permitted to fly.
Traveling by car with your dog can be a lot of fun. Ensure that you have all documents related to your dog on hand. Whenever traveling, be certain that your dog has a sturdy collar on, with at least one identification tag, and one registration or medical tag. The smart thing for both you and your dog while being transported in a car is for the dog to be secured. This prevents injury to the dog should you have to stop abruptly, and it prevents the dog from becoming airborne and smashing into you. It is not recommended that a dog ride in the back of a pick-up truck unless he is in a crate that is secured to the truck itself. Never leave a dog in a hot vehicle or crate.
Remember that when in the car, your dog should not be allowed to thrust its head out the window, as airborne particles of any nature could cause severe injury to your dog’s nose, eyes, or ears. If your dog is a nervous flyer or rider, you can obtain sedatives that aid in keeping your pet calm and cozy. Throughout the entire trip, make sure to help your dog feel as comfortable as possible; bring their toys and bedding with you, and adhere to their otherwise normal eating, exercise, and bathroom routine.
Do your research- educate yourself on places you may be able to visit with your dog, and also the places that you cannot. Some state parks, for example, do not allow dogs to be admitted. Many hotels, however, are quite pet-friendly, and will even make special accommodations for your dog.
Make certain that, when traveling with your dog, you take frequent breaks. Dogs need to stretch and take time out from being cooped up in the car, just like you do.
About the Author: Geoffrey A. English is the Founder of GundogsOnline.com, the internet's premiere online magazine dedicated to gun dogs. Vistit their site for Innotek dog collars, Tri-Tronics dog collars, and sport dog training collars.
Source: www.isnare.com
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=301089&ca=Pets
Traveling with a dog can be tough. Dogs can experience apprehension, over-excitement, dread, nausea and downright fear when they are forced to travel. Some dogs actually are nomadic in nature, and so might love to travel, but bark at people or other animals, are restless, or attempt to escape while traveling. Planning your trip carefully will enable you to relax and enjoy your trip more fully, and enable your dog to be secure and happy for the duration of the ride.
It is always wise before traveling to have your dog seen by a veterinarian. This is especially true if you are traveling across state lines or into other countries. Your vet will check for illnesses, injuries or conditions that might preclude your dog from travel. Upon request, your veterinarian will provide you with a certificate of health, and a copy of your dogs’ Rabies vaccination. These documents are necessary to gain entry into other countries. While receiving vaccinations, you should also ask your vet to vaccinate your dog against Bordatella and parvovirus, as some areas that you may be traveling to may have outbreaks of either or both.
If you will be flying with your dog, it is vital to have a clear understanding of the airline’s regulations concerning dogs. Most airlines insist that you use only airline-approved travel crates, that your dog’s documentation be posted to the side of the crate, and that the crate have 24-48 hours worth of food, and any needed medications. Beware that a large percentage of airlines have the 80 degree rule: if the temperature at any point along the flight is projected to reach eighty degrees or higher, your dog will not be permitted to fly.
Traveling by car with your dog can be a lot of fun. Ensure that you have all documents related to your dog on hand. Whenever traveling, be certain that your dog has a sturdy collar on, with at least one identification tag, and one registration or medical tag. The smart thing for both you and your dog while being transported in a car is for the dog to be secured. This prevents injury to the dog should you have to stop abruptly, and it prevents the dog from becoming airborne and smashing into you. It is not recommended that a dog ride in the back of a pick-up truck unless he is in a crate that is secured to the truck itself. Never leave a dog in a hot vehicle or crate.
Remember that when in the car, your dog should not be allowed to thrust its head out the window, as airborne particles of any nature could cause severe injury to your dog’s nose, eyes, or ears. If your dog is a nervous flyer or rider, you can obtain sedatives that aid in keeping your pet calm and cozy. Throughout the entire trip, make sure to help your dog feel as comfortable as possible; bring their toys and bedding with you, and adhere to their otherwise normal eating, exercise, and bathroom routine.
Do your research- educate yourself on places you may be able to visit with your dog, and also the places that you cannot. Some state parks, for example, do not allow dogs to be admitted. Many hotels, however, are quite pet-friendly, and will even make special accommodations for your dog.
Make certain that, when traveling with your dog, you take frequent breaks. Dogs need to stretch and take time out from being cooped up in the car, just like you do.
About the Author: Geoffrey A. English is the Founder of GundogsOnline.com, the internet's premiere online magazine dedicated to gun dogs. Vistit their site for Innotek dog collars, Tri-Tronics dog collars, and sport dog training collars.
Source: www.isnare.com
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=301089&ca=Pets
How Low Cost and Poor Grade Crates Can be Unsafe For Your Pet
By Trevor Price
Cheap dog crates can do more than save you money - they may actually kill or injure your dog. Poorly constructed metal and plastic crates cause over 100 dog deaths every year due to cuts, infections and even strangulation. Before you waste your money and possibly your dog's life on a cheap crate, keep reading.
Not Good Enough for Air Travel
There's a reason most cheap dog crates aren't cleared for air travel - they're unsafe and not suited for air travel conditions. Typically, most air crates need to be easily opened and closed from the outside and provide the animal with enough ventilation and protection. More important, a good carrier needs to be made from heavy-dutyplastic. Last year, over 5 dogs were hurt after cheap plastic dog crates cracked because of pressure changes. The cracked and chipped plastic either cut or hit the animals. Obviously, their injuries were not noticed or treated until well after the plane landed.
Collapsing Crates
Stay away from low-quality, wire crates that are collapsible. Numerous consumers have complained these crates do not hold up and can simply collapse on the animal without warning - ascenario that can be deadly for small puppies. While adult dogs typically won't be severely injured by a collapsed crate, being trapped for possibly hours is stressful and causes anxiety.
Poor Ventilation
Cheap dog crates that are made from plastic or fabric tend to not offer enough ventilation for your animal, making them feel trapped and as though they're not getting enough air. Several years ago, dogs in a California kennel were found dead after being kept in cheap, plastic kennels that were too small. The dogs suffocated.
Another danger associated with poorly ventilated fabric or plastic dog crates is overheating. Without sufficient ventholes, your dog can quickly be overcome by heat on a hot summer day spent inside a plastic crate.
How to Find a Good Crate
Look for a high-quality crate that is easily opened from the outside, provides sufficient ventilation and is large enough for the animal. While high-quality wire crates aren't cleared for air travel, they are great when coupled with a crate mat for the bottom.
Other Crate Safety Rules
It doesn't matter if you're buying a cheap dog crate or the most expensive one in the store. There are some basic safety rules that apply to all:
- Take off the dog's collar before you put it in the crate since the collar could get caught and choke the dog.
- Provide your dog with toys and water while crated.
- Never leave a dog in a crate for more than four or five hours - it's cruel and unhealthy.
It is easy to take a beloved canine for granted and assume that since it's an animal, it will be content in confined and uncomfortable settings. However, the choice of a crate goes beyond mere comfort to your pet's safety and (potentially) survival. You should make your selection on a purchase accordingly.
About the Author: For information on pet supplies, seehttp://www.petsuppliestips.com, a popular site about needs for your beloved pet, such as alternative medicine for dogs -http://www.petsuppliestips.com/alternative-medicine-for-dogs.shtml, pet treatments, and many more!
Source: http://www.isnare.com
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=300060&ca=Pets
Monday, July 14, 2008
What Do Turtles Eat ?
What Do Turtles Eat ? by Steven Megill
What do turtles eat? Well, that really depends on the type of turtle you are asking about. Most turtles are carnivorous when they are young, but grow in to omnivores when they mature. Some feed mostly on plants while others, like the snapping turtle, actively hunt small creatures for their food. A turtle's diet depends on what kind of turtle it is, where it lives and what it has access to.
If you have an adult turtle as a pet, here are some of the foods you can feed it to keep it healthy:
Protein: There are many sources of protein that are safe to feed turtles: small amounts of cooked fish, turkey or chicken are okay; boiled eggs are okay; mealworms, waxworms, earthworms and silkworms are okay; slugs are fine, as are shrimp, snails and crickets. Don't give them raw meat, though because it can contain a lot of fat and could become contaminated by the time the turtle decides to eat it.
Vegetables: leafy vegetables are best: grape and fig leaves, red clover, carrot tops, dandelions, lettuce (red and green are okay), turnip greens, water lettuce, duckweed, collards, endive and plantain weed are all okay. Regular vegetables like corn, green beans, beets, carrots, okra, green peas and some squash varieties are also okay.
Flowers: some turtles love flowers! Roses, pansies, petunias, lilies, carnations, hibiscus, hyssop, borage, nasturtium and geraniums are all okay as turtle food.
Fruit: some turtles also like fruit: kiwi, apple, mango, strawberry, cantaloupe, blackberries, bananas, grapes, tomatoes, blueberries and some citrus fruits are all a fine to feed a turtle.
Of course, there are some foods that should never be given to a turtle:
Turtles cannot digest milk or dairy products because their stomachs do not carry the enzymes needed for the breaking down of lactose. Feeding dairy products to your turtle is a good way to make sure it gets very sick.
It is also a bad idea to feed any sort of canned or processed food to your turtle. These usually have large amounts of salt and preservatives and people don't yet know what these ingredients will do to the digestive system of a turtle.
What do turtles eat from their natural habitats? Some turtles have been known to eat poisonous plants that are a part of their natural habitat—they do this as a way to make themselves inedible by predators. Unfortunately, especially in the case of pet turtles, you won't know exactly what kind of plants are a part of its native habitat, so it is best to keep poisonous plants (like poison ivy, rhubarb plants and avocado plants) out of their reach and out of their tanks.
What do turtles eat? The turtle's diet depends on what kind of a turtle it is and how old it is. While they are babies, turtles are almost completely carnivorous, though they change into omnivores or even herbivores when they get older (depending on the turtle species). If you are buying a pet turtle from a store, the pet store will likely have food you can feed it.
Copyright (c) 2008 Steven Magill
For great turtle care advice, turtle food recommendation or turtle health issues visit us at .....
http://www.petturtlecare.net/
Article Source: Free High Quality Articles at Article Crux
What do turtles eat? Well, that really depends on the type of turtle you are asking about. Most turtles are carnivorous when they are young, but grow in to omnivores when they mature. Some feed mostly on plants while others, like the snapping turtle, actively hunt small creatures for their food. A turtle's diet depends on what kind of turtle it is, where it lives and what it has access to.
If you have an adult turtle as a pet, here are some of the foods you can feed it to keep it healthy:
Protein: There are many sources of protein that are safe to feed turtles: small amounts of cooked fish, turkey or chicken are okay; boiled eggs are okay; mealworms, waxworms, earthworms and silkworms are okay; slugs are fine, as are shrimp, snails and crickets. Don't give them raw meat, though because it can contain a lot of fat and could become contaminated by the time the turtle decides to eat it.
Vegetables: leafy vegetables are best: grape and fig leaves, red clover, carrot tops, dandelions, lettuce (red and green are okay), turnip greens, water lettuce, duckweed, collards, endive and plantain weed are all okay. Regular vegetables like corn, green beans, beets, carrots, okra, green peas and some squash varieties are also okay.
Flowers: some turtles love flowers! Roses, pansies, petunias, lilies, carnations, hibiscus, hyssop, borage, nasturtium and geraniums are all okay as turtle food.
Fruit: some turtles also like fruit: kiwi, apple, mango, strawberry, cantaloupe, blackberries, bananas, grapes, tomatoes, blueberries and some citrus fruits are all a fine to feed a turtle.
Of course, there are some foods that should never be given to a turtle:
Turtles cannot digest milk or dairy products because their stomachs do not carry the enzymes needed for the breaking down of lactose. Feeding dairy products to your turtle is a good way to make sure it gets very sick.
It is also a bad idea to feed any sort of canned or processed food to your turtle. These usually have large amounts of salt and preservatives and people don't yet know what these ingredients will do to the digestive system of a turtle.
What do turtles eat from their natural habitats? Some turtles have been known to eat poisonous plants that are a part of their natural habitat—they do this as a way to make themselves inedible by predators. Unfortunately, especially in the case of pet turtles, you won't know exactly what kind of plants are a part of its native habitat, so it is best to keep poisonous plants (like poison ivy, rhubarb plants and avocado plants) out of their reach and out of their tanks.
What do turtles eat? The turtle's diet depends on what kind of a turtle it is and how old it is. While they are babies, turtles are almost completely carnivorous, though they change into omnivores or even herbivores when they get older (depending on the turtle species). If you are buying a pet turtle from a store, the pet store will likely have food you can feed it.
Copyright (c) 2008 Steven Magill
For great turtle care advice, turtle food recommendation or turtle health issues visit us at .....
http://www.petturtlecare.net/
Article Source: Free High Quality Articles at Article Crux
Diagnosing Dog Health Problems at Home
By Garry Neale
Dogs are no different from humans in the way their bodies respond to disease and changes in their environment. When exposed to contaminated food, extreme cold, or infectious disease they can get sick. Dog illness symptoms can usually be diagnosed by changes in behaviors. Weight loss is also an indicator that something is wrong. Although it may be something minor, anytime you notice your dog losing weight, it's best to take them to a vet and let them deal with this problem. Since weigh loss could be a sign of a serious problem, don't wait long to make an vet appointment if you notice a sudden reduction in weight.
Dog illnesses can be separated into two different categories; 1) chronic dog illnesses like skin rashes and dog allergies which can be easily treated; and 2) acute illnesses that are life threatening like poisoning, Parvo or heatworms, which you can't do much about and require veterinary assistance as quickly as possible. Loss of appetite is another dog illness symptom. If your dog suddenly stops eating, it may be a sign your dog is in substantial pain. Dogs are a lot like people in terms of illnesses. Well, more like toddlers because they can't really explain what's wrong. So that's the way you need to treat them.
Just like people, dogs can suffer from a fever. A fever is usually a sure indicator that there is some type of internal body malfunction. If this symptom is left untreated, it can turn into a high fever and become life threatening. A fever is also a key indicator that your dog may have Parvo. A dog infected with this disease will also show signs of nausea, malnutrition and dehydration. If these signs are present, you need to get them to a vet or pet hospital as soon as possible. Once the disease has been treated and your dog is feeling better, you will still need to administer antibiotics to help prevent other infections. Parvo wrecks the immune system for several weeks.
Food or other dog allergies are another common problem dog owners have to deal with. Chronic scratching is a sure indicator that allergies are present. Dogs with food allergies will scratch year round, while dogs with other types of allergies, like grass and tree pollen, will usually only start scratching during certain seasons. Some dog will even display symptoms like diarrhea, vomiting, and weight loss if the allergies are severe. Food allergies are slow to develop because a dog's body must be exposed to the allergen long enough to build up a sufficient number of antibodies to trigger the dog's symptoms. With food allergies, most dogs will have been eating the offending diet for months or years before your dog's symptoms start to appear.
If your dog is over 7 years old and you see it limping, especially after climbing stairs or sleeping, it might be a symptom of arthritis. The AKC recommends your dog have a comprehensive examination once every year to check for liver, kidney or heart problems. Older dogs also are likely to develop vision and hearing problems and this will be discovered during an annual exam.
An yes, dogs can also have heart attacks. The are several various cardiac and pulmonary problems that can cause major heart attacks in dogs. If a heart attack is detected early, the problem can be treated and the dog can live a normal healthy life. Heart attacks should be a special concern for owners whose dogs are obese or very old.
You should always keep an accurate vaccination history of your dog in case treatment by a professional is ever needed. Remember, our dog's health depends on us.
About the Author: Garry Neale is and avid dog enthusiast and creator of the popular e-book, "The Dog Lovers Guide", a FREE dog owners handbook you can download at no cost from his Dog Lover Website.
Source: www.isnare.com
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=272765&ca=Pets
Dogs are no different from humans in the way their bodies respond to disease and changes in their environment. When exposed to contaminated food, extreme cold, or infectious disease they can get sick. Dog illness symptoms can usually be diagnosed by changes in behaviors. Weight loss is also an indicator that something is wrong. Although it may be something minor, anytime you notice your dog losing weight, it's best to take them to a vet and let them deal with this problem. Since weigh loss could be a sign of a serious problem, don't wait long to make an vet appointment if you notice a sudden reduction in weight.
Dog illnesses can be separated into two different categories; 1) chronic dog illnesses like skin rashes and dog allergies which can be easily treated; and 2) acute illnesses that are life threatening like poisoning, Parvo or heatworms, which you can't do much about and require veterinary assistance as quickly as possible. Loss of appetite is another dog illness symptom. If your dog suddenly stops eating, it may be a sign your dog is in substantial pain. Dogs are a lot like people in terms of illnesses. Well, more like toddlers because they can't really explain what's wrong. So that's the way you need to treat them.
Just like people, dogs can suffer from a fever. A fever is usually a sure indicator that there is some type of internal body malfunction. If this symptom is left untreated, it can turn into a high fever and become life threatening. A fever is also a key indicator that your dog may have Parvo. A dog infected with this disease will also show signs of nausea, malnutrition and dehydration. If these signs are present, you need to get them to a vet or pet hospital as soon as possible. Once the disease has been treated and your dog is feeling better, you will still need to administer antibiotics to help prevent other infections. Parvo wrecks the immune system for several weeks.
Food or other dog allergies are another common problem dog owners have to deal with. Chronic scratching is a sure indicator that allergies are present. Dogs with food allergies will scratch year round, while dogs with other types of allergies, like grass and tree pollen, will usually only start scratching during certain seasons. Some dog will even display symptoms like diarrhea, vomiting, and weight loss if the allergies are severe. Food allergies are slow to develop because a dog's body must be exposed to the allergen long enough to build up a sufficient number of antibodies to trigger the dog's symptoms. With food allergies, most dogs will have been eating the offending diet for months or years before your dog's symptoms start to appear.
If your dog is over 7 years old and you see it limping, especially after climbing stairs or sleeping, it might be a symptom of arthritis. The AKC recommends your dog have a comprehensive examination once every year to check for liver, kidney or heart problems. Older dogs also are likely to develop vision and hearing problems and this will be discovered during an annual exam.
An yes, dogs can also have heart attacks. The are several various cardiac and pulmonary problems that can cause major heart attacks in dogs. If a heart attack is detected early, the problem can be treated and the dog can live a normal healthy life. Heart attacks should be a special concern for owners whose dogs are obese or very old.
You should always keep an accurate vaccination history of your dog in case treatment by a professional is ever needed. Remember, our dog's health depends on us.
About the Author: Garry Neale is and avid dog enthusiast and creator of the popular e-book, "The Dog Lovers Guide", a FREE dog owners handbook you can download at no cost from his Dog Lover Website.
Source: www.isnare.com
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=272765&ca=Pets
Puppy Training: Saving Your Furniture
By Sarah McDermott
Having a puppy that's new in your home can be something that is rewarding beyond many different things. Just to come home and to know that even before your hand touches that door, there is a cute and cuddly little puppy standing there waiting for you to come in is something so exciting and great. It is something that brings a lot of joy to a lot of people to have this little puppy so excited to see them. On the down side there is something that not all owners experience but it happens to more people than normal. There is a definite reason for it but it’s hard to deal with even if you know why it’s happening. Coming home one day to find your entire couch or chairs eaten to bits is something that not too many people can take in a great way. It’s hard to deal with something like that because furniture is very expensive these days and having a new puppy destroy them is a tough pill to swallow.
There are many reasons why this happens and the main one is that your puppy is teething. When his adult teeth start coming out, it can be an uncomfortable situation or just downright painful. The only way that he knows how to deal with it is to find something to scratch his gums. Unfortunately your furniture seems to fit that description to the letter. Many people react the wrong way to something like this and often feel that he is doing it out of spite or is just a destructive animal. Many people don’t take the time to think that something might be wrong and a lot of people often try to take it out on the puppy who is only trying to help themselves out.
There are a few things that you can do to either prevent this from happening to you or help your puppy out. To prevent your furniture from getting destroyed a good practice to do is to try and keep your puppy somewhere that he doesn’t have access to anything that can be valuable to you. It’s generally a good idea to have your home sectioned off before he gets there so that you can have some sort of control of where he can go and what he can do in the area that you decide to keep him. Another great thing you can do is to get your puppy a new toy, something that has little grooves that while he chews it, it will scratch his gums and offer the same thing that your furniture offers without all the destruction and loss of money.
When it comes to raising a puppy, you need to be mindful about what might be going on with him and why he might be doing something. It is almost always a good idea to protect yourself and your belongings from these types of mishaps. There is nothing you can do to stop these things from happening to your puppy but you can protect yourself.
About the Author: This author lives in Flemington, NJ with her husband and 5 month old daughter and is an expert contributing author for a luxury dog feeders boutique offering variety of dog beds and personalized dog beds.
Source: www.isnare.com
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=271572&ca=Pets
Having a puppy that's new in your home can be something that is rewarding beyond many different things. Just to come home and to know that even before your hand touches that door, there is a cute and cuddly little puppy standing there waiting for you to come in is something so exciting and great. It is something that brings a lot of joy to a lot of people to have this little puppy so excited to see them. On the down side there is something that not all owners experience but it happens to more people than normal. There is a definite reason for it but it’s hard to deal with even if you know why it’s happening. Coming home one day to find your entire couch or chairs eaten to bits is something that not too many people can take in a great way. It’s hard to deal with something like that because furniture is very expensive these days and having a new puppy destroy them is a tough pill to swallow.
There are many reasons why this happens and the main one is that your puppy is teething. When his adult teeth start coming out, it can be an uncomfortable situation or just downright painful. The only way that he knows how to deal with it is to find something to scratch his gums. Unfortunately your furniture seems to fit that description to the letter. Many people react the wrong way to something like this and often feel that he is doing it out of spite or is just a destructive animal. Many people don’t take the time to think that something might be wrong and a lot of people often try to take it out on the puppy who is only trying to help themselves out.
There are a few things that you can do to either prevent this from happening to you or help your puppy out. To prevent your furniture from getting destroyed a good practice to do is to try and keep your puppy somewhere that he doesn’t have access to anything that can be valuable to you. It’s generally a good idea to have your home sectioned off before he gets there so that you can have some sort of control of where he can go and what he can do in the area that you decide to keep him. Another great thing you can do is to get your puppy a new toy, something that has little grooves that while he chews it, it will scratch his gums and offer the same thing that your furniture offers without all the destruction and loss of money.
When it comes to raising a puppy, you need to be mindful about what might be going on with him and why he might be doing something. It is almost always a good idea to protect yourself and your belongings from these types of mishaps. There is nothing you can do to stop these things from happening to your puppy but you can protect yourself.
About the Author: This author lives in Flemington, NJ with her husband and 5 month old daughter and is an expert contributing author for a luxury dog feeders boutique offering variety of dog beds and personalized dog beds.
Source: www.isnare.com
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=271572&ca=Pets
Monday, May 26, 2008
Top 10 Smartest Animal Countdown
By Deborah Stanley
10th place:
Small Toothed Whale. This warm blooded small whale is known for its mysterious journeys across the ocean. It is still unknown how it can find others in the group several hundred miles away.
9th place:
Squid and octopus. They are considered to be some of the smartest sea creatures. An octopus can build its shelter from the ocean debris and is equal to none in camouflage. It can change its color and pattern in less than a second, sending the brain signal to its entire body.
8th place:
Sheep. British scientists believe that we underestimate sheep on its intuition and intelligence. During several years of research they have concluded that sheep possess exceptional memory and could identify the faces of people or animals without a mistake. They even claim that sheep’s intellectual ability is closer to humans than we thought. The main downside of their study is that the animals tend to scare easy!
7th place:
Cacadu Parrot. In Great Britain a local parrot has become recognized as the country’s smartest animal. A cacadu named Badjo can sew holding a needle and thread with his beak! Badjo’s owner, a professional tailor, confirms that the bird’s skills are 90% accurate.
6th place:
Crows. Officially, most scientists consider crows as the smartest birds in the world, especially the ones living in big cities. Tokyo, Japan, is known for the largest number of crows in the world.
5th place:
Monkeys. Macacas are not only the famous inhabitants of local safari parks or Indian temples. These smart animals above everything else can recognize themselves in the mirror while other animals, including cats, cannot.
4th place:
Rats. You will be surprised to learn that old experienced rats can get away with any mouse trap: they shake it until the spring is off and also shied less younger rats from the poisonous meals.
3rd place:
Dolphins. It’s a known fact that British Special Forces used dolphins as informants during the war to carry messages to and from various ships. Many scientists confirm that dolphins possess amazing intellectual abilities. Also, dolphins never sleep with their systems totally shut down – their brain is taking turns on keeping one half in a sleep mode while the other stays alert.
2nd place:
Elephants. Elephants are extremely skillful with their trunks and are even known to paint with it! They also have an exceptional memory important to distinguish friends from enemies. If you ever hurt an elephant, he will remember it his entire life and if your paths ever cross, beware!
1st place:
Primates: Until now gorillas and chimpanzees were considered the smartest animals on the planet. However, the scientists are spending a lot of time researching orangutans and think that their abilities could be even more astonishing. So for their closest proximity to human nature of improvising and using tools to get food, primates remain as number one in our countdown.
About the Author: Deborah Stanley writes for http://www.PetsReady.com - Disaster, Emergency Preparedness Portal full of Pet Care Articles, Disaster Preparedness Tips, Latest Food Recalls, Preparedness Newsletter and much more!. PetsReady specifically focuses on emergency preparedness kits for Cats and Dogs for any disaster situation.
Source: www.isnare.com
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=256337&ca=Pets
10th place:
Small Toothed Whale. This warm blooded small whale is known for its mysterious journeys across the ocean. It is still unknown how it can find others in the group several hundred miles away.
9th place:
Squid and octopus. They are considered to be some of the smartest sea creatures. An octopus can build its shelter from the ocean debris and is equal to none in camouflage. It can change its color and pattern in less than a second, sending the brain signal to its entire body.
8th place:
Sheep. British scientists believe that we underestimate sheep on its intuition and intelligence. During several years of research they have concluded that sheep possess exceptional memory and could identify the faces of people or animals without a mistake. They even claim that sheep’s intellectual ability is closer to humans than we thought. The main downside of their study is that the animals tend to scare easy!
7th place:
Cacadu Parrot. In Great Britain a local parrot has become recognized as the country’s smartest animal. A cacadu named Badjo can sew holding a needle and thread with his beak! Badjo’s owner, a professional tailor, confirms that the bird’s skills are 90% accurate.
6th place:
Crows. Officially, most scientists consider crows as the smartest birds in the world, especially the ones living in big cities. Tokyo, Japan, is known for the largest number of crows in the world.
5th place:
Monkeys. Macacas are not only the famous inhabitants of local safari parks or Indian temples. These smart animals above everything else can recognize themselves in the mirror while other animals, including cats, cannot.
4th place:
Rats. You will be surprised to learn that old experienced rats can get away with any mouse trap: they shake it until the spring is off and also shied less younger rats from the poisonous meals.
3rd place:
Dolphins. It’s a known fact that British Special Forces used dolphins as informants during the war to carry messages to and from various ships. Many scientists confirm that dolphins possess amazing intellectual abilities. Also, dolphins never sleep with their systems totally shut down – their brain is taking turns on keeping one half in a sleep mode while the other stays alert.
2nd place:
Elephants. Elephants are extremely skillful with their trunks and are even known to paint with it! They also have an exceptional memory important to distinguish friends from enemies. If you ever hurt an elephant, he will remember it his entire life and if your paths ever cross, beware!
1st place:
Primates: Until now gorillas and chimpanzees were considered the smartest animals on the planet. However, the scientists are spending a lot of time researching orangutans and think that their abilities could be even more astonishing. So for their closest proximity to human nature of improvising and using tools to get food, primates remain as number one in our countdown.
About the Author: Deborah Stanley writes for http://www.PetsReady.com - Disaster, Emergency Preparedness Portal full of Pet Care Articles, Disaster Preparedness Tips, Latest Food Recalls, Preparedness Newsletter and much more!. PetsReady specifically focuses on emergency preparedness kits for Cats and Dogs for any disaster situation.
Source: www.isnare.com
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=256337&ca=Pets
Saturday, April 19, 2008
Cat Vaccinations – An Important Preventive Procedure To A Healthy Cat
By Moses Wright
Cats seem independent and self-sufficient, but cats need just as much care and attention as other pets. Cats are prone to a number of serious diseases and it is extremely important to ensure that your cat is vaccinated from an early age. Further prevention from diseases is necessary to maintain your cat’s health with annual booster injections.
Anyone who has seen a cat in pain and distress because of a condition that could have been easily prevented by adequate care will understand why vets are so keen to promote preventive vaccination for all cats. This not only helps to prevent the development of the disease to a terminal stage but also limit the spread of these infectious diseases to the surrounding feline population.
Vaccinations are important as almost all catteries will only permit cats that have past records of vaccinations. This measure serves to protect your cat as well as to ensure other cats in the cattery are not infected should your cat be ill. Even cats that have been vaccinated can sometimes contract a variant of the disease and the less risk there is to the cattery as a whole the better.
Travel restrictions for pets can be stringent for most European countries. If you are considering traveling with your pet you will need to carry all available documentation concerning your pet's health and vaccination record, and you may need to show evidence of feline veterinarian treatment including deworming schedules. Without these documents, your cat may have to be quarantined for up to six months, thus it would be import, so do check with your travel agency to make sure you have all the documentation you may need.
Kittens should be vaccinated from the age of nine weeks. They are then vaccinated again at 12 weeks, and then go on to a program that would include annual booster injections.
Your vet would also advise you on the necessity of giving your cat a rabies shot, particularly if your cat has contact with other feral cats in the neighborhood and gets into scrapes. A point to note is that the rabies shot is a requirement if you are traveling to any country within Europe.
The four main vaccinations a cat can have from the age of nine weeks are the following:
Feline infectious enterovirus (FIE, also known as the feline panleukopaenia virus.
Feline herpesvirus (otherwise known as feline calcivirus, or cat flu)
Feline leukaemia. A vet will test a cat's blood to see if there is already an immunity built up from previous contact, and if the test shows negative i.e. there has been no contact and therefore no immunity built up the cat should be vaccinated.
Feline Chlamydophila, which causes conjunctivitis. Again your cat may already have built up an immunity so your vet can check for antibodies in the bloodstream and vaccinate if the test comes back negative to previous contact.
Vaccination may save your cat’s life should it get into any contact with any horrifying diseases. Although vaccines do hold risk for a small minority of cats who received them, proper vaccination is still the best solution and protection your cat can have against infectious disease.
About the Author: Moses Wright is the webmaster of http://www.CatCustomer.com. He provides more information on Cat Health, Cat Veterinary Diseases and Cat Nutrition that you can learn in the comfort of your home. You are welcome to reprint this article if you keep the content and live link intact.
Source: www.isnare.com
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=112240&ca=Pets
Cats seem independent and self-sufficient, but cats need just as much care and attention as other pets. Cats are prone to a number of serious diseases and it is extremely important to ensure that your cat is vaccinated from an early age. Further prevention from diseases is necessary to maintain your cat’s health with annual booster injections.
Anyone who has seen a cat in pain and distress because of a condition that could have been easily prevented by adequate care will understand why vets are so keen to promote preventive vaccination for all cats. This not only helps to prevent the development of the disease to a terminal stage but also limit the spread of these infectious diseases to the surrounding feline population.
Vaccinations are important as almost all catteries will only permit cats that have past records of vaccinations. This measure serves to protect your cat as well as to ensure other cats in the cattery are not infected should your cat be ill. Even cats that have been vaccinated can sometimes contract a variant of the disease and the less risk there is to the cattery as a whole the better.
Travel restrictions for pets can be stringent for most European countries. If you are considering traveling with your pet you will need to carry all available documentation concerning your pet's health and vaccination record, and you may need to show evidence of feline veterinarian treatment including deworming schedules. Without these documents, your cat may have to be quarantined for up to six months, thus it would be import, so do check with your travel agency to make sure you have all the documentation you may need.
Kittens should be vaccinated from the age of nine weeks. They are then vaccinated again at 12 weeks, and then go on to a program that would include annual booster injections.
Your vet would also advise you on the necessity of giving your cat a rabies shot, particularly if your cat has contact with other feral cats in the neighborhood and gets into scrapes. A point to note is that the rabies shot is a requirement if you are traveling to any country within Europe.
The four main vaccinations a cat can have from the age of nine weeks are the following:
Feline infectious enterovirus (FIE, also known as the feline panleukopaenia virus.
Feline herpesvirus (otherwise known as feline calcivirus, or cat flu)
Feline leukaemia. A vet will test a cat's blood to see if there is already an immunity built up from previous contact, and if the test shows negative i.e. there has been no contact and therefore no immunity built up the cat should be vaccinated.
Feline Chlamydophila, which causes conjunctivitis. Again your cat may already have built up an immunity so your vet can check for antibodies in the bloodstream and vaccinate if the test comes back negative to previous contact.
Vaccination may save your cat’s life should it get into any contact with any horrifying diseases. Although vaccines do hold risk for a small minority of cats who received them, proper vaccination is still the best solution and protection your cat can have against infectious disease.
About the Author: Moses Wright is the webmaster of http://www.CatCustomer.com. He provides more information on Cat Health, Cat Veterinary Diseases and Cat Nutrition that you can learn in the comfort of your home. You are welcome to reprint this article if you keep the content and live link intact.
Source: www.isnare.com
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=112240&ca=Pets
Tuesday, April 1, 2008
No Way To Treat A Dog!
By Chris 'Dogfather' Taylor
In this article, you’re going to learn 3 tips on how to treat your dog’s weight problem, using? You’ve guessed it, treats of course.
As our dogs are so adorable and loyal, there is a tendency for you to reward them by feeding them some treats, tidbits or table scraps, in addition to their regular meal. You may think it is harmless but gradually over time, the occasional treat becomes more regular and your dog will gain more extra pounds.
Overweight dogs are more likely to contract diseases and illnesses and stay sick longer. They are more likely to have symptoms of old age at a younger age. They are also more likely to have a shortened life span. It is the responsibility of all dog owners to get their dogs back to shape and optimal health.
Here’re 3 dog diet tips on treats that can treat your dog’s overweight problems:
Tips #1 - Use Treats As Treats
It likely sounds incredibly simple. Treats should be given as treats, not regular staples in the dog's diet. The fact is that many people give their dogs too many treats. Sure, your dogs can have treats unless your vet says otherwise, but you have to give this to them sparingly.
Instead of giving treats on a regular basis as a diet element, use treats for training purposes, for distraction from nail cutting and even as a way to reward your dog. Just limit the amount that you give them as well as the frequency that they get them. This will help your dog to lose weight by reducing the number of calories they get from dog treat products.
Tips #2 - Keep Treats To 10 Percent
As mentioned earlier, treats are a large factor in many dog's diets and that is a problem. The good news is that you can monitor how much they take in and how much you give them in a day.
Your goal should be to make sure that no more than 10 percent of the dog's intake of food comes from treat related products. Any and all treats should have the dietary information that your dog needs so that you can record it. This does not mean that you have to sit down with a piece of paper and keep notes.
Instead, know what the calorie goals are for your dog and multiply this number by 0.1. This number is the number of calories that are allowable to come from treat products. Anything more than this and your dog is consuming too much of their diet on treats. You can ask your vet for the dog diet calorie goal for your dog.
Tips #3 - Using Treats As Rewards
Your dog has done an amazing job today at getting his exercise in. You are proud and happy for your dog. You may be tempted to hand him a treat as a reward for his hard work but that could be a mistake.
It is often the case that dogs will need to be given treats as rewards. When this is the case, look for healthy treats, not treats that are going to put more weight on for them. As mentioned earlier, be sure that they are no more than 10 percent of the dog diet and that they are used sparingly.
But, why not try to reward the dog in a different way? Did you know that dogs crave the attention of their owners? In that case, then you can provide them a reward of a job well done by working with them through praises.
Use rewards that are healthy for your dog for their motivation. They will love it and you'll feel good too.
Your dogs are going to be healthy if you help them to be. While many of them do not need to have constant attention, they do need you to monitor their health in what they eat and what they are doing for exercise.
Imagine what it would be like if you can add a few more years to your dog’s life. The best treat you can give your dog is to slim down so it can be lean and fit. All you need to know is to learn some simple and effective dog diet techniques. Wouldn’t it be amazing if you can help you dog live a few more years? The truth of the matter is it does not have to cost you a small fortune to help your dog.
About the Author: The author, Chris Taylor, also affectionately known as “The Dogfather” to his friends, is a dog lover with more than 21 years of experience in dog nutrition and dog training. His newly launched product revealed powerful secrets to help you add more years to your dog’s life. You can find out the secrets and also get free exclusive bonuses worth $90 by visiting http://www.dogdietguide.com
Source: www.isnare.com
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=217461&ca=Pets
In this article, you’re going to learn 3 tips on how to treat your dog’s weight problem, using? You’ve guessed it, treats of course.
As our dogs are so adorable and loyal, there is a tendency for you to reward them by feeding them some treats, tidbits or table scraps, in addition to their regular meal. You may think it is harmless but gradually over time, the occasional treat becomes more regular and your dog will gain more extra pounds.
Overweight dogs are more likely to contract diseases and illnesses and stay sick longer. They are more likely to have symptoms of old age at a younger age. They are also more likely to have a shortened life span. It is the responsibility of all dog owners to get their dogs back to shape and optimal health.
Here’re 3 dog diet tips on treats that can treat your dog’s overweight problems:
Tips #1 - Use Treats As Treats
It likely sounds incredibly simple. Treats should be given as treats, not regular staples in the dog's diet. The fact is that many people give their dogs too many treats. Sure, your dogs can have treats unless your vet says otherwise, but you have to give this to them sparingly.
Instead of giving treats on a regular basis as a diet element, use treats for training purposes, for distraction from nail cutting and even as a way to reward your dog. Just limit the amount that you give them as well as the frequency that they get them. This will help your dog to lose weight by reducing the number of calories they get from dog treat products.
Tips #2 - Keep Treats To 10 Percent
As mentioned earlier, treats are a large factor in many dog's diets and that is a problem. The good news is that you can monitor how much they take in and how much you give them in a day.
Your goal should be to make sure that no more than 10 percent of the dog's intake of food comes from treat related products. Any and all treats should have the dietary information that your dog needs so that you can record it. This does not mean that you have to sit down with a piece of paper and keep notes.
Instead, know what the calorie goals are for your dog and multiply this number by 0.1. This number is the number of calories that are allowable to come from treat products. Anything more than this and your dog is consuming too much of their diet on treats. You can ask your vet for the dog diet calorie goal for your dog.
Tips #3 - Using Treats As Rewards
Your dog has done an amazing job today at getting his exercise in. You are proud and happy for your dog. You may be tempted to hand him a treat as a reward for his hard work but that could be a mistake.
It is often the case that dogs will need to be given treats as rewards. When this is the case, look for healthy treats, not treats that are going to put more weight on for them. As mentioned earlier, be sure that they are no more than 10 percent of the dog diet and that they are used sparingly.
But, why not try to reward the dog in a different way? Did you know that dogs crave the attention of their owners? In that case, then you can provide them a reward of a job well done by working with them through praises.
Use rewards that are healthy for your dog for their motivation. They will love it and you'll feel good too.
Your dogs are going to be healthy if you help them to be. While many of them do not need to have constant attention, they do need you to monitor their health in what they eat and what they are doing for exercise.
Imagine what it would be like if you can add a few more years to your dog’s life. The best treat you can give your dog is to slim down so it can be lean and fit. All you need to know is to learn some simple and effective dog diet techniques. Wouldn’t it be amazing if you can help you dog live a few more years? The truth of the matter is it does not have to cost you a small fortune to help your dog.
About the Author: The author, Chris Taylor, also affectionately known as “The Dogfather” to his friends, is a dog lover with more than 21 years of experience in dog nutrition and dog training. His newly launched product revealed powerful secrets to help you add more years to your dog’s life. You can find out the secrets and also get free exclusive bonuses worth $90 by visiting http://www.dogdietguide.com
Source: www.isnare.com
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=217461&ca=Pets
Monday, February 25, 2008
Coping With The Death Of Your Dog
By Miss Debra Rae
The death of your dog, either through accident, old age or illness feels like you've lost your best friend. You may very well have. Dealing with the death of a pet and grieving for your dog is needed for healing. Your dog was a part of your family. Often from the time they were puppies. Even if they were adults when they came into your life, the loss is painful.
Once your dog has passed, grieving is only natural. We all grieve in our own way. Some of us cry all the time while others walk around like a wounded bear growling, some choose to isolate themselves for a while. There are still several phases we experience regardless of who we are and go as follows:
1. Shock/denial
2. Anger
3. Bargaining
4. Depression
5. Acceptance.
All family members will go through these phases in one form or another and not necessarily in the order given. Give yourselves time. This includes the canine family members at home too. Allow the good days and the sad days. Join an online pet loss support group to help with the sad days. Crying is o.k.
The day I euthanized my dog was, by far, one of the worst days in my life. I thought my heart would break in two. I cried off & on for weeks. It took some time. I healed. It was hard some days. A month or so later I dreamt of my Roxanne and knew for certain she is in good hands and waiting for me on the flip side. I feel honored to have had her as a part of my life. Thank you for everything Roxy.
Children can be especially sensitive due to the loss of a pet. Allow it. Be honest. Please don't tell them their dog was "put to sleep." Children take things literally and “being put to sleep” could cause intense fear of sleeping. Children will also bring up the subject often. This is how they deal with their grief. Be patient. Be understanding. Let them know it’s o.k. to miss their canine companion and that it’s alright to cry or be angry or whatever they feel. Explain as plainly & gently as you can to your children what happened and why. If you need help, get it.
Please inform teachers, daycare providers and other adults in your child’s life of the loss. This helps to explain displaced anger or out of character depression. Know that time does heal the wounds and that it’ll be alright.
Understand also that the dogs still at home will grieve too. Even if they seemed to have barely gotten along with each other. Dogs feel the loss of their companion and will exhibit many of the same behaviors that humans do while grieving.
Here are a few tips for your grieving dog(s):
*Keep their routines as normal as possible.
*Do your best not to reinforce their behavior changes.
*Don't make any dramatic changes.
*Keep in mind, your grieving dog may lose their appetite for a while, so changing their food will do no good.
*There may be some howling; it's their way of grieving.
*Try not to go overboard with extra attention to your grieving dog. This could lead to separation anxiety later.
*If there's more than 1 grieving dog at home, there will be a redistribution of power. Especially if it was the alpha male or female who has passed. Allow it. Your dogs will work out their new hierarchy. Now, working this out will be a bit noisy since it's through scuffles, snarls, snaps and general sibling rivalry fights.
*Don't, under any circumstances, get a new dog to help with a grieving dog. Often the new dog will be rejected or tormented and then you have one grieving dog and one very anxious, scared, freaked out dog. Let some time pass. Allow the wounds to heal.
*When the human is ready for a new dog, and be certain you have the energy to train a new dog, then the dogs at home are ready (this is generally about 4-6 months).
To aid your own healing process,
Memorialize your dog. There are many ways to do this. Make a collage of the photos taken over the years. Put it with the other family pictures. Create a scrap book of your canine family member. Involve everyone who knew them.
Have a stone made with your dog's name on it. Put it in your yard. There is custom made memorial dog jewelry available, plaques and urns. There's also two books titled: "I Still Miss You" and Just Gus" that may also help. These can be purchased at most bookstores or online. However you need to memorialize & grieve for your dog, do it. It'll be o.k.
Losing a loved one is difficult and requires adjustment time for the entire household. Take the time you need, give others the time they need. Soon you'll treasure your memories and laugh until you cry when you talk about your beloved dog and the goofy stuff they did in their lifetime.
About the Author: Miss Rae has been a poet & writer since college at UW, class of 1996. Visit her site for all your dog’s needs from training programs & nutrition to choosing a vet & books galore. Visit Good Poopy.com.
Source: http://www.isnare.com/
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=226130&ca=Pets
The death of your dog, either through accident, old age or illness feels like you've lost your best friend. You may very well have. Dealing with the death of a pet and grieving for your dog is needed for healing. Your dog was a part of your family. Often from the time they were puppies. Even if they were adults when they came into your life, the loss is painful.
Once your dog has passed, grieving is only natural. We all grieve in our own way. Some of us cry all the time while others walk around like a wounded bear growling, some choose to isolate themselves for a while. There are still several phases we experience regardless of who we are and go as follows:
1. Shock/denial
2. Anger
3. Bargaining
4. Depression
5. Acceptance.
All family members will go through these phases in one form or another and not necessarily in the order given. Give yourselves time. This includes the canine family members at home too. Allow the good days and the sad days. Join an online pet loss support group to help with the sad days. Crying is o.k.
The day I euthanized my dog was, by far, one of the worst days in my life. I thought my heart would break in two. I cried off & on for weeks. It took some time. I healed. It was hard some days. A month or so later I dreamt of my Roxanne and knew for certain she is in good hands and waiting for me on the flip side. I feel honored to have had her as a part of my life. Thank you for everything Roxy.
Children can be especially sensitive due to the loss of a pet. Allow it. Be honest. Please don't tell them their dog was "put to sleep." Children take things literally and “being put to sleep” could cause intense fear of sleeping. Children will also bring up the subject often. This is how they deal with their grief. Be patient. Be understanding. Let them know it’s o.k. to miss their canine companion and that it’s alright to cry or be angry or whatever they feel. Explain as plainly & gently as you can to your children what happened and why. If you need help, get it.
Please inform teachers, daycare providers and other adults in your child’s life of the loss. This helps to explain displaced anger or out of character depression. Know that time does heal the wounds and that it’ll be alright.
Understand also that the dogs still at home will grieve too. Even if they seemed to have barely gotten along with each other. Dogs feel the loss of their companion and will exhibit many of the same behaviors that humans do while grieving.
Here are a few tips for your grieving dog(s):
*Keep their routines as normal as possible.
*Do your best not to reinforce their behavior changes.
*Don't make any dramatic changes.
*Keep in mind, your grieving dog may lose their appetite for a while, so changing their food will do no good.
*There may be some howling; it's their way of grieving.
*Try not to go overboard with extra attention to your grieving dog. This could lead to separation anxiety later.
*If there's more than 1 grieving dog at home, there will be a redistribution of power. Especially if it was the alpha male or female who has passed. Allow it. Your dogs will work out their new hierarchy. Now, working this out will be a bit noisy since it's through scuffles, snarls, snaps and general sibling rivalry fights.
*Don't, under any circumstances, get a new dog to help with a grieving dog. Often the new dog will be rejected or tormented and then you have one grieving dog and one very anxious, scared, freaked out dog. Let some time pass. Allow the wounds to heal.
*When the human is ready for a new dog, and be certain you have the energy to train a new dog, then the dogs at home are ready (this is generally about 4-6 months).
To aid your own healing process,
Memorialize your dog. There are many ways to do this. Make a collage of the photos taken over the years. Put it with the other family pictures. Create a scrap book of your canine family member. Involve everyone who knew them.
Have a stone made with your dog's name on it. Put it in your yard. There is custom made memorial dog jewelry available, plaques and urns. There's also two books titled: "I Still Miss You" and Just Gus" that may also help. These can be purchased at most bookstores or online. However you need to memorialize & grieve for your dog, do it. It'll be o.k.
Losing a loved one is difficult and requires adjustment time for the entire household. Take the time you need, give others the time they need. Soon you'll treasure your memories and laugh until you cry when you talk about your beloved dog and the goofy stuff they did in their lifetime.
About the Author: Miss Rae has been a poet & writer since college at UW, class of 1996. Visit her site for all your dog’s needs from training programs & nutrition to choosing a vet & books galore. Visit Good Poopy.com.
Source: http://www.isnare.com/
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=226130&ca=Pets
Saturday, February 9, 2008
Patio Ponds
By Ryan Rhode
Garden ponds and fountains were once mainly for the very rich. Today, anyone can have a garden pond. A fountain or waterfall can be included almost anyplace--even if your "yard" is limited to a patio or balcony.
Adding water to your patio can be as simple as setting out a shallow dish of water for use as a birdbath. Any shallow container at least 6 inches wide and a half-inch deep will work. Pie pans, garbage can lids, or flowerpot bases work well in small spaces. Fill the container with clean water and wash it every day or two. The wildlife attracted to the water will depend on where you place the container. Containers set on the ground usually attract the greatest number of wildlife species, from birds and butterflies to squirrels and toads. Hanging birdbaths or ones on pedestals will be restricted to those creatures that can fly or jump high enough to reach the water, and give birds a chance to escape from neighborhood cats and other predators.
If you want to grow water plants--and perhaps a fish or two--you can add a tub garden to your patio or yard. Many products are on the market today. Frequently, half whiskey kegs with plastic liners are used. Numerous plastic tub gardens are available in a variety of sizes and have the advantage of being lightweight and inexpensive. Small pumps can be added to any of these containers to allow for fountains or cascades of water. Moving water is pleasant to listen to and attractive to wildlife.
Here are some considerations before adding a small tub pond to your patio or yard.
If you want to grow water plants, choose a container that is at least a foot deep. While some water plants do well in shallow water, other species--including some water lilies--require deeper water.
Consider adding a variety of plant species. Depending on the depth of your tub, place pots of plants either on the bottom or on bricks to achieve the proper depth. Floating plants such as duckweed also can be added. Floating plants reduce the amount of sunlight that enters the water, which helps reduce the growth of algae. When adding potted plants, place a layer of stones on top of the soil before setting the pots in the water. This will help hold the soil in place and help prevent any fish from "digging" into the pots.
If you live in a cold climate, consider what you will do with the tub garden in the winter. Small tubs can be moved inside if a suitable location is available. Other tubs may need to be drained to prevent damage from freezing.
Caution: Use caution and take security measures if small children have access to your pond. Even small tub gardens can be hazardous. If you intend to have a fountain or waterfall, be sure a grounded electrical outlet is available.
Above all, have fun. Water gardens provide habitat for wildlife, but also can be an enjoyable hobby for you and your family.
About the Author: The Brand New “Homeowners Guide To Landscaping” Reveals Time Tested Proven Landscaping Secrets Showing You Step-By-Step How To Plan Before You Regret Wasting Your Money Like Most People Do. Discover How To Increase The Value Of Your Home By Up To 27% Or More.
http://www.home-and-garden-decor.net
Source: www.isnare.com
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=4273&ca=Gardening
Garden ponds and fountains were once mainly for the very rich. Today, anyone can have a garden pond. A fountain or waterfall can be included almost anyplace--even if your "yard" is limited to a patio or balcony.
Adding water to your patio can be as simple as setting out a shallow dish of water for use as a birdbath. Any shallow container at least 6 inches wide and a half-inch deep will work. Pie pans, garbage can lids, or flowerpot bases work well in small spaces. Fill the container with clean water and wash it every day or two. The wildlife attracted to the water will depend on where you place the container. Containers set on the ground usually attract the greatest number of wildlife species, from birds and butterflies to squirrels and toads. Hanging birdbaths or ones on pedestals will be restricted to those creatures that can fly or jump high enough to reach the water, and give birds a chance to escape from neighborhood cats and other predators.
If you want to grow water plants--and perhaps a fish or two--you can add a tub garden to your patio or yard. Many products are on the market today. Frequently, half whiskey kegs with plastic liners are used. Numerous plastic tub gardens are available in a variety of sizes and have the advantage of being lightweight and inexpensive. Small pumps can be added to any of these containers to allow for fountains or cascades of water. Moving water is pleasant to listen to and attractive to wildlife.
Here are some considerations before adding a small tub pond to your patio or yard.
If you want to grow water plants, choose a container that is at least a foot deep. While some water plants do well in shallow water, other species--including some water lilies--require deeper water.
Consider adding a variety of plant species. Depending on the depth of your tub, place pots of plants either on the bottom or on bricks to achieve the proper depth. Floating plants such as duckweed also can be added. Floating plants reduce the amount of sunlight that enters the water, which helps reduce the growth of algae. When adding potted plants, place a layer of stones on top of the soil before setting the pots in the water. This will help hold the soil in place and help prevent any fish from "digging" into the pots.
If you live in a cold climate, consider what you will do with the tub garden in the winter. Small tubs can be moved inside if a suitable location is available. Other tubs may need to be drained to prevent damage from freezing.
Caution: Use caution and take security measures if small children have access to your pond. Even small tub gardens can be hazardous. If you intend to have a fountain or waterfall, be sure a grounded electrical outlet is available.
Above all, have fun. Water gardens provide habitat for wildlife, but also can be an enjoyable hobby for you and your family.
About the Author: The Brand New “Homeowners Guide To Landscaping” Reveals Time Tested Proven Landscaping Secrets Showing You Step-By-Step How To Plan Before You Regret Wasting Your Money Like Most People Do. Discover How To Increase The Value Of Your Home By Up To 27% Or More.
http://www.home-and-garden-decor.net
Source: www.isnare.com
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=4273&ca=Gardening
How Do I Get Newts In My Pond?
By Derek Rogers
Newts are a type of amphibian that look a lot like salamanders. However, unlike salamanders, newts spend most or all of their life in the water. They are descended from salamanders, but branched off around sixty million years ago. Now, they're found in many temperate parts of the world, including Asia, Northern Africa, Europe, and North America.
Some types have a terrestrial form (referred to as an eft), that lives on land to find a new home, then come back to the water when mature. Newts are popular among pond owners. They're charming, cute little creatures in their own right. However, having a population of newts also means that your pond is very healthy, since these creatures have somewhat specific living requirements. If you're thinking about colonizing your pond with newts, or setting it up to attract these little creatures, here's some information that might help.
Newts are often food for other creatures. This means that having newts might draw some impressive looking birds to your pond, but it also means you'll have to pay attention to what's living in and around it if you want to keep your newt population alive. Carnivorous fish often pick off these little lizard-like creatures, making it hard to keep the population up. As well, if there are any ducks frequenting your pond, they may eat the vegetation your newts are laying their eggs in, giving them no place to breed. This doesn't mean you have to chase off all predatory birds or remove newt-eating fish from your pond. It does mean that it's a good idea to try to provide habitat and other conditions that encourage a thriving population that won't be damaged by predation.
Another danger that can kill stocked or native newts is the pump of a small pond. If you have a smaller pond which requires a pump for circulation, newts can be sucked into the pump and killed. Even if you use wire mesh, these pumps can kill very small newts. You can solve this problem by using an ultra fine mesh, or by placing your pump underneath a weighted upside down pot with a hole cut in it. Remember to use mesh over this hole as well. These methods will cut down on the number of newts you lose, and on unpleasant filter cleaning.
Newts can live in fairly shallow ponds, and prefer slopes with lots of plants. High density weeds will encourage them. A good environment for newts will help you develop a breeding population that will stand up to even predatory fish and birds. While tadpoles and young newts may fall prey, a pond that can support them will encourage their numbers to increase. Expect to see baby newts around April and May, if your animals are breeding. You can either make your pond suitable for the local species of newt that you'd like to attract (specific conditions vary by species) or purchase newts and stock your pond. The second is more expensive, but also gives you a better chance of seeing these animals live and grow in your waters.
About the Author: Derek Rogers is a freelance writer who represents a number of UK businesses. For pond maintenance, he recommends Seapets, one of the UK's of pond supplier specialists.
Source: http://www.isnare.com/
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=222035&ca=Pets
Newts are a type of amphibian that look a lot like salamanders. However, unlike salamanders, newts spend most or all of their life in the water. They are descended from salamanders, but branched off around sixty million years ago. Now, they're found in many temperate parts of the world, including Asia, Northern Africa, Europe, and North America.
Some types have a terrestrial form (referred to as an eft), that lives on land to find a new home, then come back to the water when mature. Newts are popular among pond owners. They're charming, cute little creatures in their own right. However, having a population of newts also means that your pond is very healthy, since these creatures have somewhat specific living requirements. If you're thinking about colonizing your pond with newts, or setting it up to attract these little creatures, here's some information that might help.
Newts are often food for other creatures. This means that having newts might draw some impressive looking birds to your pond, but it also means you'll have to pay attention to what's living in and around it if you want to keep your newt population alive. Carnivorous fish often pick off these little lizard-like creatures, making it hard to keep the population up. As well, if there are any ducks frequenting your pond, they may eat the vegetation your newts are laying their eggs in, giving them no place to breed. This doesn't mean you have to chase off all predatory birds or remove newt-eating fish from your pond. It does mean that it's a good idea to try to provide habitat and other conditions that encourage a thriving population that won't be damaged by predation.
Another danger that can kill stocked or native newts is the pump of a small pond. If you have a smaller pond which requires a pump for circulation, newts can be sucked into the pump and killed. Even if you use wire mesh, these pumps can kill very small newts. You can solve this problem by using an ultra fine mesh, or by placing your pump underneath a weighted upside down pot with a hole cut in it. Remember to use mesh over this hole as well. These methods will cut down on the number of newts you lose, and on unpleasant filter cleaning.
Newts can live in fairly shallow ponds, and prefer slopes with lots of plants. High density weeds will encourage them. A good environment for newts will help you develop a breeding population that will stand up to even predatory fish and birds. While tadpoles and young newts may fall prey, a pond that can support them will encourage their numbers to increase. Expect to see baby newts around April and May, if your animals are breeding. You can either make your pond suitable for the local species of newt that you'd like to attract (specific conditions vary by species) or purchase newts and stock your pond. The second is more expensive, but also gives you a better chance of seeing these animals live and grow in your waters.
About the Author: Derek Rogers is a freelance writer who represents a number of UK businesses. For pond maintenance, he recommends Seapets, one of the UK's of pond supplier specialists.
Source: http://www.isnare.com/
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=222035&ca=Pets
Monday, January 21, 2008
Get Answers To Important Questions About Dog Nail Trimming
By Teresa James
Trimming your dog’s nails is not usually considered sharing “quality time” with your beloved pet. But when done often enough, with the proper technique, and rewards for your dog’s good behavior, it should be one of those regular grooming events that your dog will tolerate if not look forward to.
If not done often enough, with proper technique, and reward- training, it can be frightening and even painful for your dog. In this article are answers to many common dog nail clipping questions as well as tips on proper equipment and technique that will give you the advantage when you approach this simple home dog-grooming necessity.
Is dog nail trimming painful to my dog?
Dog nail trimming is not painful if you use a sharp nail trimmer and don’t clip the nails too short. A dull trimmer can put a lot of pressure on your dog's toenail before it actually cuts through the nail. If this happens your dog may feel an uncomfortable pinching sensation. This is because the vein in the toenail is being squeezed. To avoid this always make sure that you're using a sharp pet nail trimmer.
What tools do I need to trim my dog’s nails?
You will want to have a sharp clipper designed for dog nail trimming. Dogs come in all sizes so choose a nail trimmer that’s right for the size of your pet’s nails. The most common types of nail trimmers are the guillotine, pliers and scissor styles.
Guillotine style dog nail trimmers - require that the dog’s nail be inserted through a hole in the top of the trimmer. As the handles are squeezed together the blade comes down and cuts through the nail. Many people find guillotine style clippers more difficult to use on large breed dogs. Thicker nails can be more difficult to insert into the guide hole in the clipper. These dog nail trimmers have a cutting blade that must be changed frequently to maintain a nice clean cut.
Pliers style dog nail trimmers - work similar to pruning shears. The two notched blades surround and cut through the nail as the handles are squeezed together. Some people like this style because they can see exactly where the blade will cut through the nail. If you have a large dog this type of trimmer works great on thick nails.
Just make sure to select a heavy-duty clipper designed to cut through the thick toenails of your large breed dog. Pliers style trimmers are available for small, medium and large dogs. These dog nail trimmers don’t have blades that need to be replaced but they do need to be sharpened when they become dull.
Scissor style dog nail trimmers - work just like a pair of scissors. The two scissor-like notched blades surround and cut through the nail as the handles are closed. These clippers are for light duty jobs only. These are not actually dog nail trimmers. They are best used for cats, birds and other small animals. Some people do use them on small dogs. They’re usually labeled as cat/bird claw clippers.
The style you choose for your dog nail trimming needs is a matter of personal preference. If the clipper is the correct size it will get the job done. Just remember to keep your nail trimmer sharp so that it makes a fast clean cut. A dull clipper can pinch the nail, which will result in discomfort to your dog.
In addition to good quality nail trimmers, it is also recommended to have a pet nail file. You’ll find that it is much easier to file down any rough edges with a nail file that has been designed for the shape of your dog’s nails.
Next on the list is styptic powder. It’s always a good idea to have it on hand for those occasional mishaps. A nail clipped just a little too short tends to bleed a lot. Applying some styptic powder will help stop the bleeding.
Finally, keep plenty of dog treats on hand to reward good behavior. You can also use dog treats to distract your pet during dog nail trimming. Treats work great to draw a dog's attention away from a bleeding nail.
Why do my dog’s nails need to be trimmed regularly?
When a dog’s nails become too long they interfere with the dog’s gait and as the nails continue to grow, walking will become awkward and painful. Untrimmed nails can also split resulting in a great deal of pain, bleeding, and a trip to the veterinarian’s office. In severe cases a dog’s nails can curl under and grow into the pad of the dog’s paw causing a very serious and painful infection. These types of ingrown nail problems are most common on the dewclaws.
The dewclaws are the nails located on the inside of the paw. Many breeders have the dewclaws removed shortly after puppies are born, so not all dogs will have dewclaws. If your dog has them remember to include them in your dog nail trimming routine. These nails don’t touch the ground, so they don’t wear down as fast as the others as your dog walks on rough surfaces. Trimming your dog’s nails regularly will easily prevent these problems.
How do I know when my dog’s nails need to be trimmed?
When your dog’s nails are beginning to curve is one indication that your dog’s nails need a trim. And if you hear a clicking or tapping sound as your dog walks across a bare floor it’s definitely time for a nail trimming. But it is best not to wait that long – once or twice a month is usually a good rule of thumb for dog nail trimming.
If you let your dog’s nails grow too long then it could take some time to get them back to a healthy length again. Regularly trimming the tips of your dog’s nails is the best approach. Some dogs walk and run on rough surfaces and are able to wear down their nails, but most dogs will need some help. You will get to know how fast your dog’s nails grow if you routinely inspect your pet’s nails.
Even if you don’t actually trim them each time, regular inspection will help assure that your dog’s feet stay healthy. So, make nail inspection and trimming an important part of your dog’s routine grooming.
When should I start trimming my dog’s nails?
If you’re starting with a puppy the answer is as soon as you bring your new puppy home. If you have an adult or an older dog the answer is pretty much the same – right now. If you start early it probably will not take too long for your puppy to adjust to a nail trimming routine. Make a habit of handling your puppy’s feet everyday. Nail trimming will be much easier if your puppy doesn’t mind having his feet handled.
Adult dogs, just like people, are usually set in their ways. So if your adult dog initially resists getting his nails trimmed you will most likely need to spend a lot more time getting him used to the procedure. As with a puppy, it’s a good idea to start getting your dog used to having his feet handled before you attempt to clip your dog’s nails. Be very patient and don’t rush into the procedure.
Bring out the clipping tools ahead of time and let your dog become familiar with them. It is important that you remain calm. If you’re nervous, your dog will sense it and associate fear or uncertainty with dog nail trimming. If your dog is nervous use gentle reassurance, but don’t coddle your dog. Let your dog know that you expect him to behave, but don’t push it too far.
If your dog can only manage to tolerate getting one toenail trimmed that’s all right. Just be persistent and try for another nail at another time. And always remember to reward good behavior with your dog's favorite treat.
How can I cut my dog’s nails when he doesn’t like his feet touched?
Have patience and start working on getting your dog used to having his feet handled. This must be done gradually, so don’t rush it. Try gently touching one foot while your dog is asleep. If your dog wakes up be very casual about it. Just remove your hand and act as if you didn’t even notice that you were touching his paw. Anytime your dog resists don’t react, just ignore the fact that you were even holding his paw and try again another time. Repeat this process and over time your dog will adjust to having his feet handled and you should even be able to start touching individual toes without an adverse reaction.
Whenever your dog allows you to touch his feet always remember to praise your dog and give him a dog treat. Your dog will begin to associate having his feet handled with a pleasant experience. Bring out the nail clippers when your dog is very comfortable with you handling his feet and you are confident that you have gained your dog’s trust.
Will my dog ever adjust to getting her nails trimmed?
Many dogs may never like to get their nails trimmed, but if done regularly over time, dogs can learn to sit through this routine grooming procedure. Other dogs may never sit still. If you can’t get your dog to sit still you may need to recruit the help of another person to hold your dog while you trim her nails. While some dogs can be distracted by dog treats alone, others may also have to be held. You may want to try clipping your dog’s nails after a full day of exercise when your dog is looking to take a long nap. Tired dogs tend to be less resistant.
If you know that your dog tends to bite when stressed out, for safety sake you should muzzle your pet before you begin a dog nail trimming procedure. If the task of trimming your dog’s nails proves to be too much, find a professional dog groomer or veterinarian for this part of your dog’s routine grooming. If you can’t get your dog to cooperate it’s better that your dog doesn’t associate you with this negative experience. If you know that your dog tends to react in an aggressive manner, be sure to let your groomer know what to expect so that the necessary safety precautions can be taken before they begin a dog nail trimming session.
What is the quick and what do I need to know about it?
The quick is the living part of a dog’s nail and has blood vessels running throughout. Cutting into the quick during dog nail trimming is painful for your dog and will result in bleeding. If your dog has light colored nails your job will be easier since you will be able to see the quick. It will be impossible to see the quick if your dog’s nails are black or dark in color. If your dog has at least one light colored nail you can usually use that nail as a guide for the others. If dog nail trimming is completely new to you, ask your veterinarian or groomer to show you how to trim your dog’s nails or consult a good dog care book.
Another important fact to note is that the quick grows with the nail. As a dog’s nails grow longer the quick will also lengthen. So if your dog’s nails are over grown you will not be able to clip the nails to the desired length without cutting into the quick. You will need to trim the tips of your dog’s nails often and over time the quick will shorten. To avoid cutting into the quick you’ll want to start by trimming small pieces of the nail until you get the hang of it.
Help, I’ve cut my dog’s nail too short and now my dog is bleeding! What do I do now?
Don’t panic. Your dog is in a little pain but the prognosis is good – your dog will live! You’ve cut into the quick, the blood-filled tissue in your dog’s nail. To stop the bleeding take a pinch of styptic powder and press it against the bleeding toenail. Now give your dog lots of treats. The nail should stop bleeding in about 5-10 minutes.
Try not to baby your dog too much. You don’t want to bring a lot of unnecessary attention to the injured nail. You’ll be surprised at how easily your dog will be distracted by the dog treats if you’re not making a big deal out of the bleeding toenail. So just stay calm and upbeat and you may be able to finish your dog nail-trimming task.
If your dog is calm and enjoying the treats it's best to continue trimming. If you didn’t finish with the paw that you were working on you may want to continue on another paw and come back to that one after you have finished the rest. If your dog is too excited you may need to try again at a later time. Don’t be discouraged, even professional dog groomers occasionally cut into the quick.
If my dog’s nails are over grown how can dog nail trimming get them back to a healthy length?
You will need to trim your dog’s nails regularly. Start by clipping very small pieces of the nail tip until you can see a dark, round, kind of moist looking disk appear in the middle of the nail. This means you’re approaching the quick and the nail will bleed if you cut it any shorter.
Try trimming this far every week or two and the quick will gradually recede. Over time the length of the nail can be shortened. Cutting into the quick to shorten a dog’s over grown nails could lead to an infection. If your dog’s nails are extremely over grown and this condition is causing health issues consult your veterinarian immediately.
Trimming your dog’s nails is one of the regular home dog grooming tasks that helps to keep your dog healthy and active. As with most dog grooming tasks, rewarding your dog for positive behavior is an important part in your dog’s acceptance of the activity. It’s always best when your dog can associate the attention you lavish on him or her with a positive, happy memory. Learning the tricks to proper dog nail trimming, training your dog with positive feedback, and showing patience and love will make the time you spend together a reward in itself.
About the Author: Article courtesy of: http://www.dog-supplies-advisor.com/home-dog-grooming.html dedicated to providing quality dog care advice on a broad range of dog-related topics. Includes articles, frequently asked questions, recommendations, and Free Ezine.
Publication is permitted so long as the resource information remains intact and the link is live.
Source: www.isnare.com
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=1734&ca=Pets
Trimming your dog’s nails is not usually considered sharing “quality time” with your beloved pet. But when done often enough, with the proper technique, and rewards for your dog’s good behavior, it should be one of those regular grooming events that your dog will tolerate if not look forward to.
If not done often enough, with proper technique, and reward- training, it can be frightening and even painful for your dog. In this article are answers to many common dog nail clipping questions as well as tips on proper equipment and technique that will give you the advantage when you approach this simple home dog-grooming necessity.
Is dog nail trimming painful to my dog?
Dog nail trimming is not painful if you use a sharp nail trimmer and don’t clip the nails too short. A dull trimmer can put a lot of pressure on your dog's toenail before it actually cuts through the nail. If this happens your dog may feel an uncomfortable pinching sensation. This is because the vein in the toenail is being squeezed. To avoid this always make sure that you're using a sharp pet nail trimmer.
What tools do I need to trim my dog’s nails?
You will want to have a sharp clipper designed for dog nail trimming. Dogs come in all sizes so choose a nail trimmer that’s right for the size of your pet’s nails. The most common types of nail trimmers are the guillotine, pliers and scissor styles.
Guillotine style dog nail trimmers - require that the dog’s nail be inserted through a hole in the top of the trimmer. As the handles are squeezed together the blade comes down and cuts through the nail. Many people find guillotine style clippers more difficult to use on large breed dogs. Thicker nails can be more difficult to insert into the guide hole in the clipper. These dog nail trimmers have a cutting blade that must be changed frequently to maintain a nice clean cut.
Pliers style dog nail trimmers - work similar to pruning shears. The two notched blades surround and cut through the nail as the handles are squeezed together. Some people like this style because they can see exactly where the blade will cut through the nail. If you have a large dog this type of trimmer works great on thick nails.
Just make sure to select a heavy-duty clipper designed to cut through the thick toenails of your large breed dog. Pliers style trimmers are available for small, medium and large dogs. These dog nail trimmers don’t have blades that need to be replaced but they do need to be sharpened when they become dull.
Scissor style dog nail trimmers - work just like a pair of scissors. The two scissor-like notched blades surround and cut through the nail as the handles are closed. These clippers are for light duty jobs only. These are not actually dog nail trimmers. They are best used for cats, birds and other small animals. Some people do use them on small dogs. They’re usually labeled as cat/bird claw clippers.
The style you choose for your dog nail trimming needs is a matter of personal preference. If the clipper is the correct size it will get the job done. Just remember to keep your nail trimmer sharp so that it makes a fast clean cut. A dull clipper can pinch the nail, which will result in discomfort to your dog.
In addition to good quality nail trimmers, it is also recommended to have a pet nail file. You’ll find that it is much easier to file down any rough edges with a nail file that has been designed for the shape of your dog’s nails.
Next on the list is styptic powder. It’s always a good idea to have it on hand for those occasional mishaps. A nail clipped just a little too short tends to bleed a lot. Applying some styptic powder will help stop the bleeding.
Finally, keep plenty of dog treats on hand to reward good behavior. You can also use dog treats to distract your pet during dog nail trimming. Treats work great to draw a dog's attention away from a bleeding nail.
Why do my dog’s nails need to be trimmed regularly?
When a dog’s nails become too long they interfere with the dog’s gait and as the nails continue to grow, walking will become awkward and painful. Untrimmed nails can also split resulting in a great deal of pain, bleeding, and a trip to the veterinarian’s office. In severe cases a dog’s nails can curl under and grow into the pad of the dog’s paw causing a very serious and painful infection. These types of ingrown nail problems are most common on the dewclaws.
The dewclaws are the nails located on the inside of the paw. Many breeders have the dewclaws removed shortly after puppies are born, so not all dogs will have dewclaws. If your dog has them remember to include them in your dog nail trimming routine. These nails don’t touch the ground, so they don’t wear down as fast as the others as your dog walks on rough surfaces. Trimming your dog’s nails regularly will easily prevent these problems.
How do I know when my dog’s nails need to be trimmed?
When your dog’s nails are beginning to curve is one indication that your dog’s nails need a trim. And if you hear a clicking or tapping sound as your dog walks across a bare floor it’s definitely time for a nail trimming. But it is best not to wait that long – once or twice a month is usually a good rule of thumb for dog nail trimming.
If you let your dog’s nails grow too long then it could take some time to get them back to a healthy length again. Regularly trimming the tips of your dog’s nails is the best approach. Some dogs walk and run on rough surfaces and are able to wear down their nails, but most dogs will need some help. You will get to know how fast your dog’s nails grow if you routinely inspect your pet’s nails.
Even if you don’t actually trim them each time, regular inspection will help assure that your dog’s feet stay healthy. So, make nail inspection and trimming an important part of your dog’s routine grooming.
When should I start trimming my dog’s nails?
If you’re starting with a puppy the answer is as soon as you bring your new puppy home. If you have an adult or an older dog the answer is pretty much the same – right now. If you start early it probably will not take too long for your puppy to adjust to a nail trimming routine. Make a habit of handling your puppy’s feet everyday. Nail trimming will be much easier if your puppy doesn’t mind having his feet handled.
Adult dogs, just like people, are usually set in their ways. So if your adult dog initially resists getting his nails trimmed you will most likely need to spend a lot more time getting him used to the procedure. As with a puppy, it’s a good idea to start getting your dog used to having his feet handled before you attempt to clip your dog’s nails. Be very patient and don’t rush into the procedure.
Bring out the clipping tools ahead of time and let your dog become familiar with them. It is important that you remain calm. If you’re nervous, your dog will sense it and associate fear or uncertainty with dog nail trimming. If your dog is nervous use gentle reassurance, but don’t coddle your dog. Let your dog know that you expect him to behave, but don’t push it too far.
If your dog can only manage to tolerate getting one toenail trimmed that’s all right. Just be persistent and try for another nail at another time. And always remember to reward good behavior with your dog's favorite treat.
How can I cut my dog’s nails when he doesn’t like his feet touched?
Have patience and start working on getting your dog used to having his feet handled. This must be done gradually, so don’t rush it. Try gently touching one foot while your dog is asleep. If your dog wakes up be very casual about it. Just remove your hand and act as if you didn’t even notice that you were touching his paw. Anytime your dog resists don’t react, just ignore the fact that you were even holding his paw and try again another time. Repeat this process and over time your dog will adjust to having his feet handled and you should even be able to start touching individual toes without an adverse reaction.
Whenever your dog allows you to touch his feet always remember to praise your dog and give him a dog treat. Your dog will begin to associate having his feet handled with a pleasant experience. Bring out the nail clippers when your dog is very comfortable with you handling his feet and you are confident that you have gained your dog’s trust.
Will my dog ever adjust to getting her nails trimmed?
Many dogs may never like to get their nails trimmed, but if done regularly over time, dogs can learn to sit through this routine grooming procedure. Other dogs may never sit still. If you can’t get your dog to sit still you may need to recruit the help of another person to hold your dog while you trim her nails. While some dogs can be distracted by dog treats alone, others may also have to be held. You may want to try clipping your dog’s nails after a full day of exercise when your dog is looking to take a long nap. Tired dogs tend to be less resistant.
If you know that your dog tends to bite when stressed out, for safety sake you should muzzle your pet before you begin a dog nail trimming procedure. If the task of trimming your dog’s nails proves to be too much, find a professional dog groomer or veterinarian for this part of your dog’s routine grooming. If you can’t get your dog to cooperate it’s better that your dog doesn’t associate you with this negative experience. If you know that your dog tends to react in an aggressive manner, be sure to let your groomer know what to expect so that the necessary safety precautions can be taken before they begin a dog nail trimming session.
What is the quick and what do I need to know about it?
The quick is the living part of a dog’s nail and has blood vessels running throughout. Cutting into the quick during dog nail trimming is painful for your dog and will result in bleeding. If your dog has light colored nails your job will be easier since you will be able to see the quick. It will be impossible to see the quick if your dog’s nails are black or dark in color. If your dog has at least one light colored nail you can usually use that nail as a guide for the others. If dog nail trimming is completely new to you, ask your veterinarian or groomer to show you how to trim your dog’s nails or consult a good dog care book.
Another important fact to note is that the quick grows with the nail. As a dog’s nails grow longer the quick will also lengthen. So if your dog’s nails are over grown you will not be able to clip the nails to the desired length without cutting into the quick. You will need to trim the tips of your dog’s nails often and over time the quick will shorten. To avoid cutting into the quick you’ll want to start by trimming small pieces of the nail until you get the hang of it.
Help, I’ve cut my dog’s nail too short and now my dog is bleeding! What do I do now?
Don’t panic. Your dog is in a little pain but the prognosis is good – your dog will live! You’ve cut into the quick, the blood-filled tissue in your dog’s nail. To stop the bleeding take a pinch of styptic powder and press it against the bleeding toenail. Now give your dog lots of treats. The nail should stop bleeding in about 5-10 minutes.
Try not to baby your dog too much. You don’t want to bring a lot of unnecessary attention to the injured nail. You’ll be surprised at how easily your dog will be distracted by the dog treats if you’re not making a big deal out of the bleeding toenail. So just stay calm and upbeat and you may be able to finish your dog nail-trimming task.
If your dog is calm and enjoying the treats it's best to continue trimming. If you didn’t finish with the paw that you were working on you may want to continue on another paw and come back to that one after you have finished the rest. If your dog is too excited you may need to try again at a later time. Don’t be discouraged, even professional dog groomers occasionally cut into the quick.
If my dog’s nails are over grown how can dog nail trimming get them back to a healthy length?
You will need to trim your dog’s nails regularly. Start by clipping very small pieces of the nail tip until you can see a dark, round, kind of moist looking disk appear in the middle of the nail. This means you’re approaching the quick and the nail will bleed if you cut it any shorter.
Try trimming this far every week or two and the quick will gradually recede. Over time the length of the nail can be shortened. Cutting into the quick to shorten a dog’s over grown nails could lead to an infection. If your dog’s nails are extremely over grown and this condition is causing health issues consult your veterinarian immediately.
Trimming your dog’s nails is one of the regular home dog grooming tasks that helps to keep your dog healthy and active. As with most dog grooming tasks, rewarding your dog for positive behavior is an important part in your dog’s acceptance of the activity. It’s always best when your dog can associate the attention you lavish on him or her with a positive, happy memory. Learning the tricks to proper dog nail trimming, training your dog with positive feedback, and showing patience and love will make the time you spend together a reward in itself.
About the Author: Article courtesy of: http://www.dog-supplies-advisor.com/home-dog-grooming.html dedicated to providing quality dog care advice on a broad range of dog-related topics. Includes articles, frequently asked questions, recommendations, and Free Ezine.
Publication is permitted so long as the resource information remains intact and the link is live.
Source: www.isnare.com
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=1734&ca=Pets
Monday, January 14, 2008
Proper Grooming Of Your Pet Dogs And Cats
By Dana Goldberg
Do you have a pet dog or cat in your house?
We treat them as part of the household; we are obliged to give proper care and attention for them to make them look good and healthy, just like what we are doing to other family members.
There are different pet parlors where you can bring your pet dogs and cats to have them groomed properly. Pet parlor owners also give some basic home pet grooming tips and advices for pet owners to follow so that they can personally attend to their pets’ grooming needs.
Have your Dog the Best Look
Pet dogs are one of the most adventurous pet animals. They tend to explore— different parts of the house, backyard, and even in the streets. Because of this, they acquire different smell (a stinky one, for instance), their furs are stained, and different parasites sticks to their body and make them itchy.
Proper hygiene practices that are similar to human beings are one of the basics in dog grooming. It is important that you give your dog the best bath. Below are the tips to help you bathe your dog successfully.
• Prepare the bathtub and the bath supplies that you will use in bathing your pet dog. Make the bathroom comfortably warm so that you can encourage your dog to have it bathe. Gather all the pet bath supplies such as dog shampoo, bucket, towel, and hair dryer that will be used before bringing them into the bathroom.
• After you have gathered these bath supplies, bring your dog to the bathroom. Pet them and make them comfortable while you are waiting for the water to reach a soothing temperature ideal for them.
• Bathe them in the tub by using a bucket to splash water on their body. You can also use a hose with a sprayer on the end.
• Use medicated dog shampoos against fleas and ticks. You can also have shampoos of sweet scent and good for your dog’s sensitive skin.
• Just a reminder: Never use dish soaps or your own shampoo because it will plague your dog with painful skin irritations. If you are not sure of what dog shampoos and soaps are fit for them, consult your veterinarian first.
• Once you have splashed their body with water, apply now their shampoo. Be sure that you will not let the shampoo reach their eyes. Massage their body carefully. Rinse it with water once again.
• Dry them using a towel first. Wipe their paws gently. Give extra attention to their ears, for any moisture cam lead to wax and bacteria build up that can lead to ear infections.
• Then use a hair dryer. Set the dryer to its medium setting and place it at least six inches from your dog’s fur so that it will not burn. Continue drying until their furs are dry, but not completely. Then brush through their hair as you dry it to give it style.
Hydrophobic Cat Grooming Tips
It is a well-known fact that cats are really afraid of water. It is a challenge for you to lure your pet cat to take a bathe. Here are some pointers that you can consider in bathing your pet:
• Make the water warm. Cats have high body temperature than ours, so it will make them comfortable if you will bathe them in warm water. Nevertheless, it must not be too hot for them.
• Have them bathe in a flat surface. You can also place it in a rubber mat so that they will not slip.
• Splash a little amount of water on their body. Use a hose with sprayer if necessary.
• Apply a little amount of cat shampoo in their furs. Be sure it will not get into their eyes or else it will irritate them. Use shampoos specifically intended for them.
• After rinsing, dry them by using a towel and then later on a hair dryer in medium setting. Be sure you will not dry their furs completely. Use a brush to style their furs.
So there you have the basic tips in grooming your pet dogs and cats. Make them the most-groomed pets you ever had.
About the Author: D. Goldberg is the editor of Dog Food Specialists. Descriptions and contents of pet foods, herbs, BARF style diets, Raw Diets, and a lot more.
Source: www.isnare.com
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=40774&ca=Pets
Do you have a pet dog or cat in your house?
We treat them as part of the household; we are obliged to give proper care and attention for them to make them look good and healthy, just like what we are doing to other family members.
There are different pet parlors where you can bring your pet dogs and cats to have them groomed properly. Pet parlor owners also give some basic home pet grooming tips and advices for pet owners to follow so that they can personally attend to their pets’ grooming needs.
Have your Dog the Best Look
Pet dogs are one of the most adventurous pet animals. They tend to explore— different parts of the house, backyard, and even in the streets. Because of this, they acquire different smell (a stinky one, for instance), their furs are stained, and different parasites sticks to their body and make them itchy.
Proper hygiene practices that are similar to human beings are one of the basics in dog grooming. It is important that you give your dog the best bath. Below are the tips to help you bathe your dog successfully.
• Prepare the bathtub and the bath supplies that you will use in bathing your pet dog. Make the bathroom comfortably warm so that you can encourage your dog to have it bathe. Gather all the pet bath supplies such as dog shampoo, bucket, towel, and hair dryer that will be used before bringing them into the bathroom.
• After you have gathered these bath supplies, bring your dog to the bathroom. Pet them and make them comfortable while you are waiting for the water to reach a soothing temperature ideal for them.
• Bathe them in the tub by using a bucket to splash water on their body. You can also use a hose with a sprayer on the end.
• Use medicated dog shampoos against fleas and ticks. You can also have shampoos of sweet scent and good for your dog’s sensitive skin.
• Just a reminder: Never use dish soaps or your own shampoo because it will plague your dog with painful skin irritations. If you are not sure of what dog shampoos and soaps are fit for them, consult your veterinarian first.
• Once you have splashed their body with water, apply now their shampoo. Be sure that you will not let the shampoo reach their eyes. Massage their body carefully. Rinse it with water once again.
• Dry them using a towel first. Wipe their paws gently. Give extra attention to their ears, for any moisture cam lead to wax and bacteria build up that can lead to ear infections.
• Then use a hair dryer. Set the dryer to its medium setting and place it at least six inches from your dog’s fur so that it will not burn. Continue drying until their furs are dry, but not completely. Then brush through their hair as you dry it to give it style.
Hydrophobic Cat Grooming Tips
It is a well-known fact that cats are really afraid of water. It is a challenge for you to lure your pet cat to take a bathe. Here are some pointers that you can consider in bathing your pet:
• Make the water warm. Cats have high body temperature than ours, so it will make them comfortable if you will bathe them in warm water. Nevertheless, it must not be too hot for them.
• Have them bathe in a flat surface. You can also place it in a rubber mat so that they will not slip.
• Splash a little amount of water on their body. Use a hose with sprayer if necessary.
• Apply a little amount of cat shampoo in their furs. Be sure it will not get into their eyes or else it will irritate them. Use shampoos specifically intended for them.
• After rinsing, dry them by using a towel and then later on a hair dryer in medium setting. Be sure you will not dry their furs completely. Use a brush to style their furs.
So there you have the basic tips in grooming your pet dogs and cats. Make them the most-groomed pets you ever had.
About the Author: D. Goldberg is the editor of Dog Food Specialists. Descriptions and contents of pet foods, herbs, BARF style diets, Raw Diets, and a lot more.
Source: www.isnare.com
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=40774&ca=Pets
Cat Fleas And Ticks - How To Control Them
By Liz Canham
Cat fleas and ticks must be controlled if life isn't to be a misery both for you and your pet and in this case, prevention is definitely better than cure!
It is an unfortunate fact that most cats (and dogs) will pick up fleas and/or ticks at some time if they are allowed outside or if a wandering cat is allowed into the house. Yes, even if your cat never sets foot outside your door, a stray may leave its fleas or their eggs behind in your carpet or on your sofa.
Even more unfortunate is that, despite protestations to the contrary, cat fleas will bite humans - believe me, I know from bitter experience. Worse, if left untreated on cats, their bites can become infected and the cat could suffer from sores leading to blood poisoning.
Don't imagine that cat fleas are only attracted to dirty cats, because that just isn't true. Like the myth that nits are only attracted to dirty human hair, it is just that - a myth. Any cat will pick up fleas if there is a flea about because they can lie dormant in a carpet or floorboard for months then in walks a cat and bingo, the flea will jump onto it. If anything, the eggs are worse because they are nearly impossible to see and when they all hatch out, you have a full scale infestation.
You will know if your cat has fleas because you will see very small, perhaps one millimetre length, brown creatures which can jump alarmingly fast and far, on your cats fur. Of course this isn't so easy if you have a dark coloured cat, but you may also see the fleas on your carpets and chair covers. If you have reached this stage of infestation, you really have a problem and you will need to spray not only the cat, but all your soft furnishings. It's best to get your vet's recommendation as to what you can use which won't cause further harm to the cat.
Ticks are less liable to spread and are more easily identifiable on cats, but are no less harmful to the cat, so don't ignore them. The most likely area to find ticks is around the cat's neck, so have a good look at the fur here from time to time and if you feel any small lumps, investigate further. There is a school of thought that says you should burn ticks or cover them in salt to make their claws retract, thus leaving nothing in the cat's skin. However, if you have ever tried to hold a cat for long enough to carry out this operation, you will know that it isn't practical and just pulling the tick off with your finger nails or a pair of tweezers is a lot easier. On cats, unless they've gone unprotected for a long time, ticks are usually quite small and easy to remove.
Notwithstanding all the above, by far the best course of action is to prevent your cat from catching fleas or ticks at all and there are plenty of methods for doing this. The best is a spot on liquid such as Frontline, which comes in measured doses and which you apply to the back of the cat's neck at monthly intervals. This is definitely the least traumatic for the cat of the sprays, powders, etc. which are available and also the most effective. You can, of course, use a flea collar, but many vets don't recommend these as the elastic in the collar can get caught in a branch then snap back and break the cat's jaw. There are hide collars which are supposed to break or at least stay open if snagged in a tree, but these are fraught with danger too.
It is definitely false economy to wait and see if your cat gets fleas, rather that treating it with a preventative, because you will not only need to buy expensive sprays to curb your infestation, but may well have to have your carpets professionally cleaned to get rid of any residual eggs, untouched by the spray.
About the Author: For more information on cat and kitten care, please visit http://www.cat-lover.lizebiz.com/blog
Source: www.isnare.com
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=213760&ca=Pets
Cat fleas and ticks must be controlled if life isn't to be a misery both for you and your pet and in this case, prevention is definitely better than cure!
It is an unfortunate fact that most cats (and dogs) will pick up fleas and/or ticks at some time if they are allowed outside or if a wandering cat is allowed into the house. Yes, even if your cat never sets foot outside your door, a stray may leave its fleas or their eggs behind in your carpet or on your sofa.
Even more unfortunate is that, despite protestations to the contrary, cat fleas will bite humans - believe me, I know from bitter experience. Worse, if left untreated on cats, their bites can become infected and the cat could suffer from sores leading to blood poisoning.
Don't imagine that cat fleas are only attracted to dirty cats, because that just isn't true. Like the myth that nits are only attracted to dirty human hair, it is just that - a myth. Any cat will pick up fleas if there is a flea about because they can lie dormant in a carpet or floorboard for months then in walks a cat and bingo, the flea will jump onto it. If anything, the eggs are worse because they are nearly impossible to see and when they all hatch out, you have a full scale infestation.
You will know if your cat has fleas because you will see very small, perhaps one millimetre length, brown creatures which can jump alarmingly fast and far, on your cats fur. Of course this isn't so easy if you have a dark coloured cat, but you may also see the fleas on your carpets and chair covers. If you have reached this stage of infestation, you really have a problem and you will need to spray not only the cat, but all your soft furnishings. It's best to get your vet's recommendation as to what you can use which won't cause further harm to the cat.
Ticks are less liable to spread and are more easily identifiable on cats, but are no less harmful to the cat, so don't ignore them. The most likely area to find ticks is around the cat's neck, so have a good look at the fur here from time to time and if you feel any small lumps, investigate further. There is a school of thought that says you should burn ticks or cover them in salt to make their claws retract, thus leaving nothing in the cat's skin. However, if you have ever tried to hold a cat for long enough to carry out this operation, you will know that it isn't practical and just pulling the tick off with your finger nails or a pair of tweezers is a lot easier. On cats, unless they've gone unprotected for a long time, ticks are usually quite small and easy to remove.
Notwithstanding all the above, by far the best course of action is to prevent your cat from catching fleas or ticks at all and there are plenty of methods for doing this. The best is a spot on liquid such as Frontline, which comes in measured doses and which you apply to the back of the cat's neck at monthly intervals. This is definitely the least traumatic for the cat of the sprays, powders, etc. which are available and also the most effective. You can, of course, use a flea collar, but many vets don't recommend these as the elastic in the collar can get caught in a branch then snap back and break the cat's jaw. There are hide collars which are supposed to break or at least stay open if snagged in a tree, but these are fraught with danger too.
It is definitely false economy to wait and see if your cat gets fleas, rather that treating it with a preventative, because you will not only need to buy expensive sprays to curb your infestation, but may well have to have your carpets professionally cleaned to get rid of any residual eggs, untouched by the spray.
About the Author: For more information on cat and kitten care, please visit http://www.cat-lover.lizebiz.com/blog
Source: www.isnare.com
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=213760&ca=Pets
Sunday, January 6, 2008
Who Let The Dogs Out?
By Maryann Mannax
I'm sure that most of you cannot imagine anyone leaving their dogs outside in the sleet and snow or in very hot weather with hardly any shelter but, in fact, there are many dogs facing this dilemma right now. The animal rights group PETA has come up with a program called "Angel for Animals".
Because of this wonderful program, many dogs can now find refuge in well-built doghouses through this winter and many more. PETA has gone into low-income, rundown areas and supplied hundreds of strong and sturdy doghouse. These are free of charge and help dogs who would have had to tolerate the ice and snow and cold without any shelter. But there are many more dogs that will have to go through this terrible ordeal. A perfect way to bring happiness and kindness to a poor little dog that has never known love or contentment is to participate in the "Angel for Animals doghouse sponsorship". This can make an enormous change in the life of a disadvantaged dog. There are also a lot of other organizations that are dedicated to helping dogs. You can easily look on line and find a group that you may want to get involved with.
Charles Darwin said that, "There is no fundamental difference between humans and the higher mammals in their mental faculties". We all need to have compassion for the innocent animals that do not have anyone else to speak up for them. Mahatma Gandi said that "the greatness of a nation and its moral progress can be measured by the way its animals are treated". Animals suffer the same way that humans do, so we should all do our part and try to be aware of anything we can do to help. Children should learn to love and respect animals to ensure that the animals will be well taken care of in the future.
If you happen to observe a dog in a backyard that looks like it is in impending danger, say if the animal is very thin or looks ill or injured or either doesn't have any shelter or cannot access it, find out which agency is responsible for implementing anti-cruelty laws in your state, county, or town and then notify them of what is going on. Then let the authorities know all crucial points as to what you have observed. Give dates, locations and approximate times. Always keep documentation of everyone you get in touch with, the dates of the contacts and the subject matter and result of your conversation. Keep copies of everything for yourself.
A lot of times we may not want to get involved because we think it is none of our business. But it is the business of concerned people to speak up when living things are treated so cruelly. Every day we have the opportunity to help treat animals with love and compassion.. Even small changes will make a difference. In the long run, we will feel much better about ourselves.
About the Author: Maryann Mannax is a contributing writer to Dogs Just Wanna Have Fun, a new online website dedicated to man's best friend. Find out the latest, greatest and most fun stuff for your dog. Go to: http://www.dogsjustwannahavefun.com/
Source: http://www.isnare.com/
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=211015&ca=Pets
I'm sure that most of you cannot imagine anyone leaving their dogs outside in the sleet and snow or in very hot weather with hardly any shelter but, in fact, there are many dogs facing this dilemma right now. The animal rights group PETA has come up with a program called "Angel for Animals".
Because of this wonderful program, many dogs can now find refuge in well-built doghouses through this winter and many more. PETA has gone into low-income, rundown areas and supplied hundreds of strong and sturdy doghouse. These are free of charge and help dogs who would have had to tolerate the ice and snow and cold without any shelter. But there are many more dogs that will have to go through this terrible ordeal. A perfect way to bring happiness and kindness to a poor little dog that has never known love or contentment is to participate in the "Angel for Animals doghouse sponsorship". This can make an enormous change in the life of a disadvantaged dog. There are also a lot of other organizations that are dedicated to helping dogs. You can easily look on line and find a group that you may want to get involved with.
Charles Darwin said that, "There is no fundamental difference between humans and the higher mammals in their mental faculties". We all need to have compassion for the innocent animals that do not have anyone else to speak up for them. Mahatma Gandi said that "the greatness of a nation and its moral progress can be measured by the way its animals are treated". Animals suffer the same way that humans do, so we should all do our part and try to be aware of anything we can do to help. Children should learn to love and respect animals to ensure that the animals will be well taken care of in the future.
If you happen to observe a dog in a backyard that looks like it is in impending danger, say if the animal is very thin or looks ill or injured or either doesn't have any shelter or cannot access it, find out which agency is responsible for implementing anti-cruelty laws in your state, county, or town and then notify them of what is going on. Then let the authorities know all crucial points as to what you have observed. Give dates, locations and approximate times. Always keep documentation of everyone you get in touch with, the dates of the contacts and the subject matter and result of your conversation. Keep copies of everything for yourself.
A lot of times we may not want to get involved because we think it is none of our business. But it is the business of concerned people to speak up when living things are treated so cruelly. Every day we have the opportunity to help treat animals with love and compassion.. Even small changes will make a difference. In the long run, we will feel much better about ourselves.
About the Author: Maryann Mannax is a contributing writer to Dogs Just Wanna Have Fun, a new online website dedicated to man's best friend. Find out the latest, greatest and most fun stuff for your dog. Go to: http://www.dogsjustwannahavefun.com/
Source: http://www.isnare.com/
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=211015&ca=Pets
Wednesday, January 2, 2008
Pet Friendly Websites: Online Advice And Tips For Pet Owners
Pet Friendly Websites: Online Advice And Tips For Pet Owners by Darlene Berkel
The internet is getting increasingly popular each day. That means that there are lots of web sites out there that cover almost any topic and every interest. One very popular niche is animals. Pet owners can now go on the internet to share tips and advice with those who share their love and passion for pets. Pet lovers discuss everything from pet care, to pet insurance, to pet friendly travel companies. Anything and everything pet friendly for the love of their pets.
Just about all pet friendly websites provide helpful information on pet friendly hotels, bed and breakfasts, and vacation rentals. These are a great asset for pet owners who wish to take their pets with them on vacation. These pet friendly websites even list the conditions under which pets are allowed in certain hotels. This helps the pet owner to plan a family vacation that includes the four-legged family members.
There are detailed pet friendly travel guides which offer lots of information on the requirements and restrictions imposed by different companies. You can access the policies and rules of a huge list of airlines and airports, and read up on veterinary certificates and microchip requirements, all from the comfort of your own home.
Reviews of Pet Care Products
If you want to stay up to date with the latest in pet care and grooming products, then again pet friendly web sites have all the information you need. You can find out about products which are available mail-order only, find stockists for specialist toys and products, and get reviews of expensive items before you lay down your hard earned cash. Just about anything and everything that you may need for the care, grooming, feeding, entertainment and transportation of your pet can be found online at pet friendly websites.
There is so much more helpful information on pet friendly websites. Other helpful information include resources for pet sitting in various places, and boarding kennels for pets that for whatever reason may not be able to travel with the family. In addition, many pet friendly websites provide excellent information on veterinarians, hospitals, medication, and even beauty salons for pets. Everything for the comfort and pleasure of your cherished pet is now literally just a mouse click away. There are even interactive websites which provide personalized information. This is especially beneficial for helping first time pet-owners handle any minor problems with their pets.
Pet web sites are great sources of information-- you can even find guides on things such as securing your home and garden and making it more pet friendly. Pet owners Beware! There may be lots of seemingly innocuous items in your home that could actually be very dangerous if ingested by your pet. You can even find specialist pet websites which offer you advice, tips and warnings about precisely that kind of thing. If you have some stories or tips to share, or would like to learn more about your pet, then take a look for a web site devoted to your chosen animal.
Want to travel with your pet and need helpful information about pet friendly lodging and pet travel resources? Visit http://www.every1loves2travel.com and discover that pets love to travel too!
Article Source: Free High-Quality Article Directory at Article Crux
The internet is getting increasingly popular each day. That means that there are lots of web sites out there that cover almost any topic and every interest. One very popular niche is animals. Pet owners can now go on the internet to share tips and advice with those who share their love and passion for pets. Pet lovers discuss everything from pet care, to pet insurance, to pet friendly travel companies. Anything and everything pet friendly for the love of their pets.
Just about all pet friendly websites provide helpful information on pet friendly hotels, bed and breakfasts, and vacation rentals. These are a great asset for pet owners who wish to take their pets with them on vacation. These pet friendly websites even list the conditions under which pets are allowed in certain hotels. This helps the pet owner to plan a family vacation that includes the four-legged family members.
There are detailed pet friendly travel guides which offer lots of information on the requirements and restrictions imposed by different companies. You can access the policies and rules of a huge list of airlines and airports, and read up on veterinary certificates and microchip requirements, all from the comfort of your own home.
Reviews of Pet Care Products
If you want to stay up to date with the latest in pet care and grooming products, then again pet friendly web sites have all the information you need. You can find out about products which are available mail-order only, find stockists for specialist toys and products, and get reviews of expensive items before you lay down your hard earned cash. Just about anything and everything that you may need for the care, grooming, feeding, entertainment and transportation of your pet can be found online at pet friendly websites.
There is so much more helpful information on pet friendly websites. Other helpful information include resources for pet sitting in various places, and boarding kennels for pets that for whatever reason may not be able to travel with the family. In addition, many pet friendly websites provide excellent information on veterinarians, hospitals, medication, and even beauty salons for pets. Everything for the comfort and pleasure of your cherished pet is now literally just a mouse click away. There are even interactive websites which provide personalized information. This is especially beneficial for helping first time pet-owners handle any minor problems with their pets.
Pet web sites are great sources of information-- you can even find guides on things such as securing your home and garden and making it more pet friendly. Pet owners Beware! There may be lots of seemingly innocuous items in your home that could actually be very dangerous if ingested by your pet. You can even find specialist pet websites which offer you advice, tips and warnings about precisely that kind of thing. If you have some stories or tips to share, or would like to learn more about your pet, then take a look for a web site devoted to your chosen animal.
Want to travel with your pet and need helpful information about pet friendly lodging and pet travel resources? Visit http://www.every1loves2travel.com and discover that pets love to travel too!
Article Source: Free High-Quality Article Directory at Article Crux
Keeping Your Dog Home And Safe
By Joann Henry
Doesn’t matter how big of a backyard you give your puppy they will still try to get out. You can stop this though by making sure that the fence is secure enough. This is important that the pup has to stay in the fence because most all public places have leash laws. That keeps them from roaming the street alone or getting hurt by a car or another dog.
Available Fence Choices
There are several different kinds of fences that you can choose from. The quality of the fence depends on a few things: What does the budget look like? How big and strong will the dog get to be? Does the area you live in have any restrictions in installation of the fence or are there any issues you need to think of such as gas or phone lines?
The fences that attract the most eyes when people pass are those made of wrought iron, masonry, and wood stockade. These usually cost more than other options. The fences that are popular with those who are wanting to keep the cost down are chain link fences. Others that are really expensive are out of the question for most people due to budget constraints.
An electric fence is also an option to contain your puppy. The electronic fence has a buried wire that goes around the area you want the pup to stay in and a collar that the dog wears. When the dog passes the wire he is given a shock. This will cause the pup to back up and quickly learn stay away from that area. This works well in areas that do not allow you to put a fence around the property.
There are warnings with this fence though, if the pup sees a cat or a car that they may chase it. They will be able to run through the area with a quick shock and when the chase is over they will not want to come back into the yard because they won’t want to be shocked. This effectively shuts them out of their area.
The other little problem with an electronic fence is with the space being left open the fence doesn’t keep the pup away from strangers or other animals. While the dog cannot leave the area there is nothing stopping others from getting to your pup. If your pup is a little territorial what ever enters could get hurt.
Other Fencing Details To Keep In Mind
If your puppy is real small right now they will be able to pass through some types of chain link fences. So you need to make sure that you get a fence that has smaller chain link. So they won’t be able to pass through.
You also need to think about your dogs climbing skills dogs like Pit bulls can climb the fence and be out. Some dogs like huskies can tear the fence so you need to think about that as well. Other dogs that are really tall like Great Danes will be able to jump some fences. I have seen a Dane pup jump a six foot fence from a stand still.
A stockade fence or masonry wall may be the best choice because your dog cannot see or been seen from the other side of the fence. With a stockade fence territorial problems between your dog and other dogs in the neighborhood are a thing of the past.
About the Author: Joann Henry operates "Doggie Health Care" http://www.DoggieHealthCare.com, a blog all about our pooches health. Sign up to receive her newsletter, & not only will you get some free tips to keep your dog healthier, but FOR A LIMITED TIME, she'll give you a FREE ebook. http://www.DoggieHealthCare.com
Source: www.isnare.com
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=213169&ca=Pets
Doesn’t matter how big of a backyard you give your puppy they will still try to get out. You can stop this though by making sure that the fence is secure enough. This is important that the pup has to stay in the fence because most all public places have leash laws. That keeps them from roaming the street alone or getting hurt by a car or another dog.
Available Fence Choices
There are several different kinds of fences that you can choose from. The quality of the fence depends on a few things: What does the budget look like? How big and strong will the dog get to be? Does the area you live in have any restrictions in installation of the fence or are there any issues you need to think of such as gas or phone lines?
The fences that attract the most eyes when people pass are those made of wrought iron, masonry, and wood stockade. These usually cost more than other options. The fences that are popular with those who are wanting to keep the cost down are chain link fences. Others that are really expensive are out of the question for most people due to budget constraints.
An electric fence is also an option to contain your puppy. The electronic fence has a buried wire that goes around the area you want the pup to stay in and a collar that the dog wears. When the dog passes the wire he is given a shock. This will cause the pup to back up and quickly learn stay away from that area. This works well in areas that do not allow you to put a fence around the property.
There are warnings with this fence though, if the pup sees a cat or a car that they may chase it. They will be able to run through the area with a quick shock and when the chase is over they will not want to come back into the yard because they won’t want to be shocked. This effectively shuts them out of their area.
The other little problem with an electronic fence is with the space being left open the fence doesn’t keep the pup away from strangers or other animals. While the dog cannot leave the area there is nothing stopping others from getting to your pup. If your pup is a little territorial what ever enters could get hurt.
Other Fencing Details To Keep In Mind
If your puppy is real small right now they will be able to pass through some types of chain link fences. So you need to make sure that you get a fence that has smaller chain link. So they won’t be able to pass through.
You also need to think about your dogs climbing skills dogs like Pit bulls can climb the fence and be out. Some dogs like huskies can tear the fence so you need to think about that as well. Other dogs that are really tall like Great Danes will be able to jump some fences. I have seen a Dane pup jump a six foot fence from a stand still.
A stockade fence or masonry wall may be the best choice because your dog cannot see or been seen from the other side of the fence. With a stockade fence territorial problems between your dog and other dogs in the neighborhood are a thing of the past.
About the Author: Joann Henry operates "Doggie Health Care" http://www.DoggieHealthCare.com, a blog all about our pooches health. Sign up to receive her newsletter, & not only will you get some free tips to keep your dog healthier, but FOR A LIMITED TIME, she'll give you a FREE ebook. http://www.DoggieHealthCare.com
Source: www.isnare.com
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=213169&ca=Pets
Raccoons and My Sanity!
Raccoons and My Sanity! by Bob Alexander
"If you let one of those critters in the house again, you'll sleep out there with them," my wife exclaimed as she slammed the door to the garage. She was yelling at me about the pair of young raccoons that visit our garage each night and eat our cat's food out of his dish.
Last year, with a different litter of raccoons, I had accidentally left the door to the house open. My association with the raccoons at that point was fairly good because I may have treated them more like pets than trespassers. After all, young ones are really cute.
My cat Spike likes to eat his dinner in privacy without a couple of raccoons nudging him away from his Meow Mix. That's why I had to move his food bowl into the house at night. This year's litter of raccoons was eating all of his food! Bringing his food bowl into the house is an inconvenience for him, but his cat food is protected from the varmints by taking it out of the garage.
His cat food is always in jeopardy. Since raccoons will eat practically anything, from cat food to dog food, everything that produces an aroma is fair game to the raccoons. To call this bunch of free loaders pets, would not be appropriate for they are nothing more than pests!
I'd hoped the raccoons that controlled Spike's food dish after dark would get the message that they weren't wanted and leave for better pastures. Not so! They keep coming through Spike's pet door into the garage each night creating a mess of my garage. Even though there is be no food for them when they sneak into the garage at night, they seemed to appear more often than before, scratching at boxes or savaging plastic containers trying to find a morsel of food.
Through the door to the garage, you can hear them growling and fighting among themselves. I've even had to take the cat's litter box outside, so the raccoons wouldn't scatter the gravel all over the floor. I've watched them grab a paw full of the litter and throw it across the room. It's amazing how raccoons can find fun in almost anything.
Spike doesn't seem to mind the disturbance each night. He'll stretch out on his pillow on the work bench and survey the scene playing out in front of him, giving the occasional grumble or a raspy meow as they continue to destroy my garage each evening.
Last year I'd tried to catch them in one of those cage type traps that don't hurt the animals. The only thing I caught was Spike. I was determined to get rid of the raccoons once and for all!
Earlier this year I had called a local coon hunters club's telephone number someone had given me. The fellow I called said that he would come out himself and set one of this traps and if caught, he would take the raccoons out to his farm and release them. This sounded great to me since it was free!
This great plan didn't work either. The coon hunter came every evening for a week to put more bait in the trap, but to no avail. Obviously the coons were smarter than the hunter. I boarded up Spike's cat door and brought his food dish and litter box back into the garage for the duration of the great raccoon round-up.
The coon hunter removed his traps after two weeks, disgusted that he hadn't been able to catch at least one of the raccoons. It was up to me to figure some other way to rid our house of these pests!
Finally when all else fails, you resort to giving the job to someone who knows what he's doing. I've finally come to wit's end and have called a professional wildlife removal company. If their name is any indication, "Critters Be Gone", they will have the problem under control in no time at all. Maybe then Spike can eat his food in the garage in peace!
Bob Alexander is well experienced in outdoor cooking, fishing and leisure living. Bob is also the author and owner of this article. Visit his sites at:
http://www.blogger.com/%3CA%20href=">http://www.homeandgardenbob/
http://www.blogger.com/%3CA%20href=">http://www.bluemarlinbob.com/
Article Source: Free High-Quality Article Directory at Article Crux
"If you let one of those critters in the house again, you'll sleep out there with them," my wife exclaimed as she slammed the door to the garage. She was yelling at me about the pair of young raccoons that visit our garage each night and eat our cat's food out of his dish.
Last year, with a different litter of raccoons, I had accidentally left the door to the house open. My association with the raccoons at that point was fairly good because I may have treated them more like pets than trespassers. After all, young ones are really cute.
My cat Spike likes to eat his dinner in privacy without a couple of raccoons nudging him away from his Meow Mix. That's why I had to move his food bowl into the house at night. This year's litter of raccoons was eating all of his food! Bringing his food bowl into the house is an inconvenience for him, but his cat food is protected from the varmints by taking it out of the garage.
His cat food is always in jeopardy. Since raccoons will eat practically anything, from cat food to dog food, everything that produces an aroma is fair game to the raccoons. To call this bunch of free loaders pets, would not be appropriate for they are nothing more than pests!
I'd hoped the raccoons that controlled Spike's food dish after dark would get the message that they weren't wanted and leave for better pastures. Not so! They keep coming through Spike's pet door into the garage each night creating a mess of my garage. Even though there is be no food for them when they sneak into the garage at night, they seemed to appear more often than before, scratching at boxes or savaging plastic containers trying to find a morsel of food.
Through the door to the garage, you can hear them growling and fighting among themselves. I've even had to take the cat's litter box outside, so the raccoons wouldn't scatter the gravel all over the floor. I've watched them grab a paw full of the litter and throw it across the room. It's amazing how raccoons can find fun in almost anything.
Spike doesn't seem to mind the disturbance each night. He'll stretch out on his pillow on the work bench and survey the scene playing out in front of him, giving the occasional grumble or a raspy meow as they continue to destroy my garage each evening.
Last year I'd tried to catch them in one of those cage type traps that don't hurt the animals. The only thing I caught was Spike. I was determined to get rid of the raccoons once and for all!
Earlier this year I had called a local coon hunters club's telephone number someone had given me. The fellow I called said that he would come out himself and set one of this traps and if caught, he would take the raccoons out to his farm and release them. This sounded great to me since it was free!
This great plan didn't work either. The coon hunter came every evening for a week to put more bait in the trap, but to no avail. Obviously the coons were smarter than the hunter. I boarded up Spike's cat door and brought his food dish and litter box back into the garage for the duration of the great raccoon round-up.
The coon hunter removed his traps after two weeks, disgusted that he hadn't been able to catch at least one of the raccoons. It was up to me to figure some other way to rid our house of these pests!
Finally when all else fails, you resort to giving the job to someone who knows what he's doing. I've finally come to wit's end and have called a professional wildlife removal company. If their name is any indication, "Critters Be Gone", they will have the problem under control in no time at all. Maybe then Spike can eat his food in the garage in peace!
Bob Alexander is well experienced in outdoor cooking, fishing and leisure living. Bob is also the author and owner of this article. Visit his sites at:
http://www.blogger.com/%3CA%20href=">http://www.homeandgardenbob/
http://www.blogger.com/%3CA%20href=">http://www.bluemarlinbob.com/
Article Source: Free High-Quality Article Directory at Article Crux
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